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Routes in The White Wall

Fruit Bowl S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Joker, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mordor S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Hope S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
No Joke S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shock Treatment S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sporte S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Free S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stone Free Direct S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Total Fruitcake S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Total Joker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Total Recall S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: E. Mathews, Feb 2018
Page Views: 697 total · 101/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Dec 23, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This is an all natural variation to Total Recall that breaks off to the right at its crux and finishes just left of Fruit Bowl. After the jug rest of TR (7th bolt, use runner) set up for the crux but continue cruxing to the right with a few ambitious and improbable long moves. Chase a couple more clips up thoughtful climbing up to and over smooth bulges.

Protection

A dozen bolts if starting with Total Recall. Probably the same if starting with Joker

Photos

Aaron Townsley
Scottsdale, Arizona
Aaron Townsley   Scottsdale, Arizona
Out of pure curiosity, Darren what do you think this would go at starting from The Joker? Jan 12, 2018
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Word on the street is this variation crux may be in 13 range. Once this gets unlocked, and eventually accepted that the White Wall gets permadraws, futuristic variations abound. Total Stoner? Total Stoke? Or the visionary mega line starting from Stone Free, finishing at the top of the wall, via high traverse across Joker, into the variation and up to the old bolts that lead above. Once seen, it cant be unseen.. Tentatively dubbed, wait for it, “Total Reclips of the Heart”. Jan 16, 2018
MarcYY
Flagstaff, AZ
MarcYY   Flagstaff, AZ
No Fruitcake Jan 22, 2018
A. Ginger
  5.13c
A. Ginger  
  5.13c
Great route, thanks for the vision and labor Darren! Feb 2, 2018

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