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Routes in Gardeners Wall

Broken Knob Job aka unknown crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brusin' and Cruisin' T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Impressions T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gobs of Nobs S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hanging Gardens T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hanging Tough T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Kreuser's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Lickety Split S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phantom missed the Opera, The T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Phantom, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Renaissance Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 52 total · 25/month
Shared By: Tim Heid on Dec 22, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access: Details

Description

Start in the pit. Stem up between two boulders until moving onto the face about 15' up. Great edges and knobs aid in the committing moves to get established and up to the large knob. Mantel the knob and clip the first bolt about 25' up. Move into the crack and clip a solid old pin. Cruxy moves past this to a bomber finger lock and easier moves to the top.

Walk off the back. Easy to set up a top-rope as well.

Alternate start could be to traverse in from the left side over to the large knob; still unprotected climbing.

Location

This route starts in the gulley you cross right before heading up the steep slope to the base of Gardener's Wall. It's over by all of the graffiti.

Once at the north side of the gulley, before crossing over, cut right for about 150'. Look back towards Gardener's and you'll see the right leaning crack.

Protection

1 bolt (SMC), 1 pin, stoppers. There are a few places where RP's may seat okay and maybe a funky flared cam placement or two up high.

1 bolt anchor up top, but you can sling a boulder way off the back side.

Photos

Tim Heid
AZ
  5.8
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.8
I've always wondered about this little route and finally got on it the other day. A neat little add on if going up to Gardener's for the day. Anyone have any further background info: FA, name, grade...? Dec 22, 2017

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