Broken Knob Job aka unknown crack
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 45 ft|
|Page Views:||52 total · 25/month|
|Shared By:||Tim Heid on Dec 22, 2017|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails.
DescriptionStart in the pit. Stem up between two boulders until moving onto the face about 15' up. Great edges and knobs aid in the committing moves to get established and up to the large knob. Mantel the knob and clip the first bolt about 25' up. Move into the crack and clip a solid old pin. Cruxy moves past this to a bomber finger lock and easier moves to the top.
Walk off the back. Easy to set up a top-rope as well.
Alternate start could be to traverse in from the left side over to the large knob; still unprotected climbing.
LocationThis route starts in the gulley you cross right before heading up the steep slope to the base of Gardener's Wall. It's over by all of the graffiti.
Once at the north side of the gulley, before crossing over, cut right for about 150'. Look back towards Gardener's and you'll see the right leaning crack.