Type: Ice, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Steve Zajchowski & John Bouchard - '74-75
Page Views: 190 total · 16/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Dec 22, 2017
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route

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This is the nice large formation on the left side of Elephant's Head Gully that usually comes in pretty fat. There are several variations possible at the WI3-4 range. A typical first pitch is to lead up to the nice ledge/block on the left side. This will provide the belayer with a nice safe spot while the leader moves back out right and up for the real money pitch that tops out on a nice flat area.

There's usually a good fixed anchor at the top but be prepared to make your own and then walk right and up to some trees for a long rap to the base of EHG.

In leaner years it might be a bit thin and scrabbly to get up to the good ice but this will be readily apparent.

Also keep in mind that EHG is popular and belay space out of the "bowling alley" can be limited. Consider alternate starts lower down the formation. You can usually see from the road how crowded EHG is and plan accordingly.


Base of Elephant's Head Gully. Keep in mind that EHG is a popular route and falling ice from that route comes directly down the funnel/bowling alley to where Watership Down typically begins. There are a few spots that keep people out of the line of fire but not many; plan accordingly. It may be possible to start lower down the formation to the left and establish a safer initial belay, working up some ledges to get up to the block mentioned in the description.


Ice screws. Fixed gear sometimes at the top...be prepared to make your own anchor.