Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 146 total · 6/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Dec 21, 2017
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Access Issue: Chinese National Park, China borderlands laws Details

Description

A highly recommended start over the original first pitch of The Siege, the Sauramus Variation is a very sustained alternative that features some very cool movement following a discontinuous crack system up the gently overhung face to the left of the original first pitch. If you want a full-value, pumpy, 30-meter pitch, get on this variation!

- To the left of the original start there is a left-leaning, ledgey crack slicing up the black wall. Climb moderate terrain until you are parallel with a hueco-filled crack on your left. Traverse into the crack, as it trends right into a wide, down-facing crack in a bulge and quickly steepens; have your endurance ready because the pitch is hard from here on out.

Turn the first bulge into a second wide pod and follow it to where it suddenly narrows into steep finger locks; the face will turn to bright orange as you make a few pumpy moves to find a marginal rest and go left on some hard, exposed moves (crux #1) to another crack. More steep moves will yield another OK rest where the crack will slice straight up the face. Climb up slightly overhung terrain to where the crack passes a hueco on your left.

Here, make some strenuous, long moves (crux #2) in order to stand and gain a marginal stance. Pass a huge, complex pod feature and follow the skinny crack to a heartbreaker series of moves up around the final bulge to underneath the roof. Gain some small ledges beneath the wide roof crack and build your belay here. Pumpy and full-value. (5.11+, ~30 meters)

From the belay continue on the normal P2 of Siege of the House Lizards

Location

The crack system immediately left of the original P1 (the not-recommended pitch) of Siege of the House Lizards

Protection

Gear: single C3 0-2, single .1-.2 X4; Camalots: double .3-.4, triple .5-2, single 3, single 4

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