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Siege of the House Lizards–Sauramus Variation
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in The Wudu Wall
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100 Years of Centipedes T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Goat Boy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scorpion Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Scorpion Pancakes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Siege of the House Lizards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2 |
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Siege of the House Lizards–Sauramus Variation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Uyghur Tarts (and Toads) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Viper, The T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 402 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Ryder Stroud on Dec 21, 2017 |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn, Nate Ball |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Chinese National Park, China borderlands laws
Details
Access to Keketuohai has constantly changed. There was a time when the park management did not want climbers in the park at all. But a dedicated crew of climbers, both foreign and Chinese, have convinced the park that climbing can be a benefit to the park's bottom line, culture, and reputation. As of summer 2016, foreigners and Chinese alike can camp within the boundaries of the park.
However, this freedom does not come without red tape. Be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN to register with the local Keketuohai police, so they are aware of your presence in the area. You need to also sign waivers with the park management.
However, this freedom does not come without red tape. Be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN to register with the local Keketuohai police, so they are aware of your presence in the area. You need to also sign waivers with the park management.
Description
A highly recommended start over the original first pitch of The Siege, the Sauramus Variation is a very sustained alternative that features some very cool movement following a discontinuous crack system up the gently overhung face to the left of the original first pitch. If you want a full-value, pumpy, 30-meter pitch, get on this variation!
- To the left of the original start there is a left-leaning, ledgey crack slicing up the black wall. Climb moderate terrain until you are parallel with a hueco-filled crack on your left. Traverse into the crack, as it trends right into a wide, down-facing crack in a bulge and quickly steepens; have your endurance ready because the pitch is hard from here on out.
Turn the first bulge into a second wide pod and follow it to where it suddenly narrows into steep finger locks; the face will turn to bright orange as you make a few pumpy moves to find a marginal rest and go left on some hard, exposed moves (crux #1) to another crack. More steep moves will yield another OK rest where the crack will slice straight up the face. Climb up slightly overhung terrain to where the crack passes a hueco on your left.
Here, make some strenuous, long moves (crux #2) in order to stand and gain a marginal stance. Pass a huge, complex pod feature and follow the skinny crack to a heartbreaker series of moves up around the final bulge to underneath the roof. Gain some small ledges beneath the wide roof crack and build your belay here. Pumpy and full-value. (5.11+, ~30 meters)
From the belay continue on the normal P2 of Siege of the House Lizards
- To the left of the original start there is a left-leaning, ledgey crack slicing up the black wall. Climb moderate terrain until you are parallel with a hueco-filled crack on your left. Traverse into the crack, as it trends right into a wide, down-facing crack in a bulge and quickly steepens; have your endurance ready because the pitch is hard from here on out.
Turn the first bulge into a second wide pod and follow it to where it suddenly narrows into steep finger locks; the face will turn to bright orange as you make a few pumpy moves to find a marginal rest and go left on some hard, exposed moves (crux #1) to another crack. More steep moves will yield another OK rest where the crack will slice straight up the face. Climb up slightly overhung terrain to where the crack passes a hueco on your left.
Here, make some strenuous, long moves (crux #2) in order to stand and gain a marginal stance. Pass a huge, complex pod feature and follow the skinny crack to a heartbreaker series of moves up around the final bulge to underneath the roof. Gain some small ledges beneath the wide roof crack and build your belay here. Pumpy and full-value. (5.11+, ~30 meters)
From the belay continue on the normal P2 of Siege of the House Lizards
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