AI4 M4+ Steep Snow
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3600 ft (1091 m), Grade V|
|Page Views:||1,079 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Chris C on Dec 21, 2017|
The crux of the climb is the 3rd pitch which traverses between the west and east ribs, which features some sporty mixed maneuvers. There are several sections of near vertical ice almost resembling waterfall ice. Gaining the summit ridge requires a long lateral traverse over moderate-steep snow that is not clearly protectable due to snow quality high up on the mountain, where a fall would be fatal so care must be taken. (Hence the PG13 safety rating.)
Descent is done by the Normal Route back to the hut. A standard hut to hut climb is appropriately 15 hours, starting at 2am. This is a little late but Ecuadorian standards (high daytime UV), but it’s better to hit the crux with a bit of sunlight, unfortunately, likely putting you on a baked glacier on the descent. Reversing the route could be quite challenging.
I believe that if this route were on a Cascades volcano, it would be considered a mega-classic.