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Routes in Lower Looner Land

Boxcar Bob S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Camper Van Beethoven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Daughter S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Grasping For Straws S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gumby Patrol S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holiday Blues S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mary Jane S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moon Floss S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Newcomer, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ride the Wild S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snorkeling in the Rhyolite S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Strawberry Razzle Tea S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Bulges and a Baby S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two Polacks and a Hilti S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unnamed Climb S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 73 total · 7/month
Shared By: Slick Williamson on Dec 21, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Access Issue: Potential Access Issue: Resolution Copper Company Details
Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

The bolted line is about a 5.5, but two other lines are available once the anchor is set. There is a near vertical face with 2-finger pockets just right of the bolt line which is maybe 5.8+ for the first 15 feet, and further right is a 5.3 line still protected by the top anchors. You can scramble up the back to set a top rope too. One of the few easy climbs without significant distance between bolts in Queen Creek, makes a low risk first lead.

Location

This route is on a shorter buttress between the ride the wild and gumby patrol buttresses.

Protection

3 bolts with 2 bolt anchor, sling/quad needed for belay as the anchor is set back from the edge.

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