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The Death of the Magician
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
Routes in 6. The Good Book
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Adrian's Crack with Bush T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Apathy Killed the American Dream TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Atman / Brahman ? TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cam's Cool Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Cap'n Ahab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Contortionist, The S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Corduroy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crow's Nest Egg TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Death of the Magician, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Gettin' Biblical TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gift of the Kneebar TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Good Book Top-Bottom Access T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Harpoon Me T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hit The Deckah T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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I Am Time T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jesus Made Waffles TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Jesus Made Waffles Redirect (AKA Jesus Made Belgium Waffles) TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Kafka on the Shore T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Krassy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Last Supper, The TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Lumberjack Fantasy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Meryl's Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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My Climb is Ishmael T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nephalim, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Prince Arjuna T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rachel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ramapo Torn (aka The Ripper) T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Rebecca S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Scurvy the Ship Dog T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sins of the Father, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sins of the Son, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Squish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Up the Slot T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Whalehunter T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wine Into Syrup TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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WWJD T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | TR, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | TR Daliang Li + Ken Roberts |
| Page Views: | 912 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Dec 19, 2017 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Intimidating thoughtful crux sequence, plus some other fun moves.
Start up the angular boulder under the left inside of the big alcove. Step Left off boulder around corner and across face to reach base of vertical crack. Straight up the crack to the top.
. . Variation ? Alternate route ? There is a report that a party climbed the overhanging arete above (and below?) the step-left-across move. Look forward to someone who knows about this achievement providing details in a comment below -- or posting a new description of a separate route.
name? Chapter title from the 2006 science fiction novel 三体 (The Three-Body Problem), which won top awards beyond China, and continued into a trilogy 地球往事.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2017. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Start up the angular boulder under the left inside of the big alcove. Step Left off boulder around corner and across face to reach base of vertical crack. Straight up the crack to the top.
. . Variation ? Alternate route ? There is a report that a party climbed the overhanging arete above (and below?) the step-left-across move. Look forward to someone who knows about this achievement providing details in a comment below -- or posting a new description of a separate route.
name? Chapter title from the 2006 science fiction novel 三体 (The Three-Body Problem), which won top awards beyond China, and continued into a trilogy 地球往事.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2017. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
Under the left side of the big central alcove / cave / chimney. See the obvious vertical crack starting about 15 feet up and about 4 feet left from the left edge of the cave.
- - > see on this Photo
- - > see on this Photo
Protection
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the description of The Good Book Sector
For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the description of The Good Book Sector
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