Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Ryder Stroud and Locky Carlier
Page Views: 22 total · 2/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Dec 18, 2017
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Access Issue: Chinese National Park, China borderlands laws Details


This route is an alternate to the first pitch of Scorpion Crack. The route's grade is the proposed free grade, though it could be as high as 5.12+. The current FA grade is 5.11 A2.

To the right of the original start is a thin flake. This variation can be split into 2 shorter pitches or linked as one hard, enduro 30-meter pitch. Begin up a left-facing corner system 5 meters right of the original Scorpion Crack start. Solid hand jams through a series of ledges will lead to a finger crack sequence (crux) before reaching the highest ledge.

You can belay from here (first pitch is 5.10) or link to the top of the flake (recommended). Nest a few big pieces (#1, #2, and/or #3) and launch into the crux, a razor-thin flake.

Commit to a long sequence of climbing before placing gear. Trying to stop to place gear in the first section of the crux is very hard and difficult to set with RPs and a marginal 000 C3. Continue on tiny, poor crimps and side-pulls through a second thin crux to find a thin finger pod. A few more strenuous moves will yield more solid finger jams and small feet on the face.

Continue on improving holds to the ledge above to find a bolted anchor station. Belay at the bolted anchor atop the flake. Move up and left past a bolt on the face to rejoin the standard second pitch of Scorpion Crack. (5.11 A2, 5.12 or .12+ free?, 30m)


The corner system immediately to the right of Scorpion Crack that leads into a thin flake above.


Set of RPs/micronuts, C3s: single 000-00,
double C3 0-2 (or X4 equivalent); Camalots: doubles
.3-1, single 2-3, very optional 4 (for the gear nest
beneath the crux)