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Routes in The Wudu Wall

100 Years of Centipedes T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Goat Boy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scorpion Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scorpion Pancakes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Siege of the House Lizards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2
Siege of the House Lizards–Sauramus Variation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Uyghur Tarts (and Toads) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Viper, The T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Ryder Stroud and Locky Carlier
Page Views: 15 total · 2/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Dec 18, 2017
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Access Issue: Chinese National Park, China borderlands laws Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This route is an alternate to the first pitch of Scorpion Crack. The route's grade is the proposed free grade, though it could be as high as 5.12+. The current FA grade is 5.11 A2.

To the right of the original start is a thin flake. This variation can be split into 2 shorter pitches or linked as one hard, enduro 30-meter pitch. Begin up a left-facing corner system 5 meters right of the original Scorpion Crack start. Solid hand jams through a series of ledges will lead to a finger crack sequence (crux) before reaching the highest ledge.

You can belay from here (first pitch is 5.10) or link to the top of the flake (recommended). Nest a few big pieces (#1, #2, and/or #3) and launch into the crux, a razor-thin flake.

Commit to a long sequence of climbing before placing gear. Trying to stop to place gear in the first section of the crux is very hard and difficult to set with RPs and a marginal 000 C3. Continue on tiny, poor crimps and side-pulls through a second thin crux to find a thin finger pod. A few more strenuous moves will yield more solid finger jams and small feet on the face.

Continue on improving holds to the ledge above to find a bolted anchor station. Belay at the bolted anchor atop the flake. Move up and left past a bolt on the face to rejoin the standard second pitch of Scorpion Crack. (5.11 A2, 5.12 or .12+ free?, 30m)

Location [Suggest Change]

The corner system immediately to the right of Scorpion Crack that leads into a thin flake above.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Set of RPs/micronuts, C3s: single 000-00,
double C3 0-2 (or X4 equivalent); Camalots: doubles
.3-1, single 2-3, very optional 4 (for the gear nest
beneath the crux)

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