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Routes in The Wudu Wall
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100 Years of Centipedes T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Goat Boy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scorpion Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Scorpion Pancakes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Siege of the House Lizards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2 |
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Siege of the House Lizards–Sauramus Variation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Uyghur Tarts (and Toads) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Viper, The T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Ryder Stroud and Locky Carlier |
| Page Views: | 505 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Ryder Stroud on Dec 18, 2017 |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Chinese National Park, China borderlands laws
Details
Access to Keketuohai has constantly changed. There was a time when the park management did not want climbers in the park at all. But a dedicated crew of climbers, both foreign and Chinese, have convinced the park that climbing can be a benefit to the park's bottom line, culture, and reputation. As of summer 2016, foreigners and Chinese alike can camp within the boundaries of the park.
However, this freedom does not come without red tape. Be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN to register with the local Keketuohai police, so they are aware of your presence in the area. You need to also sign waivers with the park management.
However, this freedom does not come without red tape. Be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN to register with the local Keketuohai police, so they are aware of your presence in the area. You need to also sign waivers with the park management.
Description
This route is an alternate to the first pitch of Scorpion Crack. The route's grade is the proposed free grade, though it could be as high as 5.12+. The current FA grade is 5.11 A2.
To the right of the original start is a thin flake. This variation can be split into 2 shorter pitches or linked as one hard, enduro 30-meter pitch. Begin up a left-facing corner system 5 meters right of the original Scorpion Crack start. Solid hand jams through a series of ledges will lead to a finger crack sequence (crux) before reaching the highest ledge.
You can belay from here (first pitch is 5.10) or link to the top of the flake (recommended). Nest a few big pieces (#1, #2, and/or #3) and launch into the crux, a razor-thin flake.
Commit to a long sequence of climbing before placing gear. Trying to stop to place gear in the first section of the crux is very hard and difficult to set with RPs and a marginal 000 C3. Continue on tiny, poor crimps and side-pulls through a second thin crux to find a thin finger pod. A few more strenuous moves will yield more solid finger jams and small feet on the face.
Continue on improving holds to the ledge above to find a bolted anchor station. Belay at the bolted anchor atop the flake. Move up and left past a bolt on the face to rejoin the standard second pitch of Scorpion Crack. (5.11 A2, 5.12 or .12+ free?, 30m)
To the right of the original start is a thin flake. This variation can be split into 2 shorter pitches or linked as one hard, enduro 30-meter pitch. Begin up a left-facing corner system 5 meters right of the original Scorpion Crack start. Solid hand jams through a series of ledges will lead to a finger crack sequence (crux) before reaching the highest ledge.
You can belay from here (first pitch is 5.10) or link to the top of the flake (recommended). Nest a few big pieces (#1, #2, and/or #3) and launch into the crux, a razor-thin flake.
Commit to a long sequence of climbing before placing gear. Trying to stop to place gear in the first section of the crux is very hard and difficult to set with RPs and a marginal 000 C3. Continue on tiny, poor crimps and side-pulls through a second thin crux to find a thin finger pod. A few more strenuous moves will yield more solid finger jams and small feet on the face.
Continue on improving holds to the ledge above to find a bolted anchor station. Belay at the bolted anchor atop the flake. Move up and left past a bolt on the face to rejoin the standard second pitch of Scorpion Crack. (5.11 A2, 5.12 or .12+ free?, 30m)
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