Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 800 ft, 7 pitches|
|FA:||Perkins and others 1986|
|Page Views:||79 total · 25/month|
|Shared By:||Curt Veldhuisen on Dec 17, 2017|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionSafe Sex is the neglected sidekick to Dreamer, similar to how Orbit was with Outer Space. But as Orbit gained acclaim for its own merits, Safe Sex is equally deserving. SS takes a direct line, utilizing compelling natural features in middle pitches 4 and 5. It is slightly easier than Dreamer and a bit less runout.
Keep this on your radar as it is always good to have a backup when you are heading to the Giant on a weekend morning! Don’t go without the excellent Perkins topo (mattsea.com/Darr/pdf/dreame…) which shows both routes.
Safe Sex starts at the original Dreamer start, which maximizes elevation by scrambling around on the right to the base of the obvious corner.
P1. Launch up open slab slightly left of the corner. 2 bolts and gear. 5.7 PG
P2. Continue straight up, merging with Dreamer and sharing its 4th belay in the shallow corner. 5 bolts. 5.8
P3. Follow P4 of Dreamer up the shallow corner and angle left. After the third bolt, head straight up where Dreamer continues left. 5.7 PG
P4. Step left around a cedar bush and climb the nice L-facing layback (5.7, cams), then right and up a steep rib (or left above overhang via 5.9 variation). If bolts are missing hangers, sling them with wired nuts. 5.8
P5. The heart of the route – the ‘dirty-but-good’ corner! The corner barely qualifies as ‘dirty’, but has bits of vegetation which are never troublesome. As the overhang looms, venture right onto the steep wall, gaining the rounded rib. A looong pitch – 6 bolts and gear. 5.8+
P6. Twenty feet of steep knobs, then easier climbing wanders left to the belay. 5.8
P7. Continue left to connect with Dreamer. You can diagonal up and left across runout mid-5th ground and a bolted 5.8 bit to belay #8 (5.8 PG). Or, go directly left (low 5th) to belay #7 of the well-bolted Dreamer Direct.
From there, rappel or continue up Dreamer to the ridge, which is highly recommended if daylight allows. Remember to factor in the diagonal rappels, down-climbing, creek crossings and road walking ahead!
Descent requires 60m double-rope rappels. Safe Sex is the preferred descent route as it avoids the notorious rope-eating flakes on Dreamer. All stations are bolted.
LocationGreen Giant Buttress, same start as Dreamer. See Perkins topo and abundant approach info on GGB and Dreamer pages
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