Type: Trad, Aid, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 580 total · 12/month
Shared By: J C on Dec 11, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick

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Description

A fun clean aid route at the western end of the camel's head. Modern gear brings the grade down considerably from the published A4 rating. No hammer necessary.

Start up old bolts in corner to roof, then traverse out left on thin crack. Follow pin scarred crack up to a small ledge with old bolts out left. From here, either go up old bolts to the left or follow crack up and right for a more direct line. Traverse over loose rock to a large ledge with a two bolt anchor.

There is an option to continue to the top of the formation in two more pitches (free and aid), heading up and left from the ledge. It is possible to do three raps to the ground, but could become a bit of an adventure.

Location

Western tip of the camel's head. See Marty's guide for a map. This route is not mentioned in Phoenix Rock.

Protection

Totems black-yellow
1-2 sets of C3's (smaller sizes)
offset nuts
#2 ballnut was pretty important under the roof
#1 C4 (useful if taking the right variation at the top)

Convenient boulders at the base for a soloing anchor.

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