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Into the Black

5.10-, Trad, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 5 votes
FA: Tim Olson, Cecil Colley, 4/89
Oregon > Portland & The… > Madrone Wall > (1) Left Corner Wall
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure DetailsDrop down

Description

Start up the thin crack, finding feet where they exist, and getting your tips in the crack. Look for holds out right to ease the awkwardness. Once you're at the piton things ease up a bit, and the crack widens for some good hand-jams and flake-jugs. Step left around the slight bulge on big edges and pull up to the midway ledge. Make another awkward move off of this ledge and move left onto the slab. Set yourself up below the final bulge and find your sequence. Once on this ledge, a final easy move delivers you to the anchors shared with Identity and Mental Crisis, both worthy top-ropes if you're keen.

Location

An obvious left-trending corner between the bolt lines of Mental Crisis and Talk Talk Talk, right side of the Left Corner Wall

Protection

Gear to 2", anchor with rap rings

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Into the Black
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[Hide Comment] Dirty, awkward, and not worth the effort Aug 15, 2020
Nate Ball

  5.10-
[Hide Comment] A little brushing and it’s back to being a worthwhile little climb in the shade. Aug 16, 2020
Riley Cahoon
West Linn
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] Alright route. Little stiff for a 5.9. I agree with 5.10a or 5.10-. Spicy all the way up. Gear to 2. Used 3 Micro nuts. Definitely look forward to a little Elvis leg in the awkward moves risking a fall on micro nuts. Aug 30, 2020
Ben S
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Loved it. I tend to over-protect, but I didn't place a single micro-anything and felt great. Slabby part is a little but of a puzzle to protect, but absolutely protectable with smallish (though not micro) nuts. I needed to scrape some dirt out of a crack to make that happen. Dec 5, 2020