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Unnamed (submitted as Old, Bad, and Ugly Nail-up)

5.9 C3, Trad, Aid, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: possibly Tim Loften and George Bracksieck, 4/77
Colorado > Durango > Falls Creek Cliffs
Warning Access Issue: This area may not be open to climbing as houses now line the base... DetailsDrop down

Description

Around April 25, 1977, I led the first pitch of this route, using aid on much of the first pitch. The start was an overhanging seam/crack, which led to good cracks in the vertical face. After about 95 feet, I reached a juniper and abseiled. Tim cleaned on jumars. We left the rope fixed, so we could finish the route on the following day. David Kozak's 1985 SOUTHWEST ROCK calls this pitch "The Old, Bad and Ugly Nail-up." He says that there is a two-bolt belay. There were no bolts when we were there. He doesn't mention a second pitch.

The following day, we jumared the fixed rope. Tim led the second pitch, using aid in the rain. The second pitch went up a nice crack in a vertical, left-facing dihedral and may go free at 5.10 or 11. The lower pitch may go free, except for (perhaps) the start.

Location

This is the rightmost long route on the main wall.

Protection

I used pitons on the first section, and nuts and pitons above. Cams hadn't been invented. The C3 is Kozak's rating for the aid. Pitons are no longer necessary or desirable for a climb like this.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tim Loften jumaring pitch one, which ended at the juniper visible above and left.
[Hide Photo] Tim Loften jumaring pitch one, which ended at the juniper visible above and left.
Tim Loften starting to clean pitch one, April 1977.
[Hide Photo] Tim Loften starting to clean pitch one, April 1977.
GB aiding the overhanging start, April 1977.
[Hide Photo] GB aiding the overhanging start, April 1977.
Scenic photo of the crag, taken in 1977. Pitch one ended at the juniper in the upper right of the crag. Pitch two climbed a nice crack in the left-facing dihedral.
[Hide Photo] Scenic photo of the crag, taken in 1977. Pitch one ended at the juniper in the upper right of the crag. Pitch two climbed a nice crack in the left-facing dihedral.
Pages 42 and 43 of "Southwest Rock".
[Hide Photo] Pages 42 and 43 of "Southwest Rock".
The first pitch is indicated by the rightmost black line (p. 43 of "Southwest Rock"). The black line ends below the ledge where the juniper was. The ledge and tree (where our first pitch ended) are farther up and left.
[Hide Photo] The first pitch is indicated by the rightmost black line (p. 43 of "Southwest Rock"). The black line ends below the ledge where the juniper was. The ledge and tree (where our first pitch ended) are…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

George Bracksieck
  5.9 C3
[Hide Comment] When I have access to a slide scanner, I'll post the few photos from our ascent. Dec 11, 2017
George Bracksieck
  5.9 C3
[Hide Comment] I'm visiting Durango now, which is jogging my memory about this climb. In the winter of '76-77, which was almost as dry as this one is (so far), I lived in a trailer on Florida Mesa and did construction work in town. I had my eye on this rock, which I knew nothing about. I had a hard time finding partners, so I brought Tim out from Boulder. A day or so after this climb, we did some undocumented climbs in the Hardscrabble Pass area, east of Westcliff. More later.... Dec 11, 2017
Matthias Holladay
On the Road...Looking for a…
[Hide Comment] VERY cool! Would love to read more about your exploits around town. Dec 20, 2017
George Bracksieck
  5.9 C3
[Hide Comment] Tim and I didn't name the climb. "OBU Nail-up" is Kozak's name for it. I wonder why he gave a clean-aid rating to a climb he called a "nail-up." I'll ask him, the next time we get out. Feb 15, 2018