Type: Trad, Aid, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tim Loften, George Bracksieck
Page Views: 198 total · 16/month
Shared By: George Bracksieck on Dec 11, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: This area may not be open to climbing as houses now line the base... Details

Description

Around April 7, 1977, I led the first pitch of this route, using aid to do much of the first pitch. The start was an overhanging seam/crack, which led to good cracks in the vertical face. After about 95 feet, I reached a juniper and rappelled. Tim cleaned on jumars. We left the rope fixed so we could finish the route on the following day. David Kozak's 1985 SOUTHWEST ROCK calls this pitch "The Old, Bad and Ugly Nail-up." He says that there is a two-bolt belay. There were no bolts when we were there. He doesn't mention a second pitch.

The following day, we jumared the fixed rope. Tim led the second pitch, using aid in the rain. The second pitch went up a nice crack in a vertical, left-facing dihedral and could go free at 5.10 or 11. The lower pitch could go free, except for (perhaps) the start.

Location

This is the rightmost long route on the main wall.

Protection

I used pitons on the first section, and nuts and pitons above. Cams hadn't been invented. The C3 is Kozak's rating for the aid. Pitons are no longer necessary or desirable for a climb like this.
George Bracksieck
  5.9 C3
George Bracksieck  
  5.9 C3
When I have access to a slide scanner, I'll post the few photos from our ascent. Dec 11, 2017
George Bracksieck
  5.9 C3
George Bracksieck  
  5.9 C3
I'm visiting Durango now, which is jogging my memory about this climb. In the winter of '76-77, which was almost as dry as this one is (so far), I lived in a trailer on Florida Mesa and did construction work in town. I had my eye on this rock, which I knew nothing about. I had a hard time finding partners, so I brought Tim out from Boulder. A day or so after this climb, we did some undocumented climbs in the Hardscrabble Pass area, east of Westcliff. More later.... Dec 11, 2017
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
VERY cool! Would love to read more about your exploits around town. Dec 20, 2017
George Bracksieck
  5.9 C3
George Bracksieck  
  5.9 C3
Tim and I didn't name the climb. "OBU Nail-up" is Kozak's name for it. I wonder why he gave a clean-aid rating to a climb he called a "nail-up." I'll ask him, the next time we get out. Feb 15, 2018