All Locations > Colorado > Durango > Falls Creek Cliffs

Unnamed (submitted as Old, Bad, and Ugly Nail-up)

Name: Unnamed (submitted as Old, Bad, and Ugly Nail-up)
Rating: 2.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British C3

Routes in Falls Creek Cliffs

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	Left No Name Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2-
	Out On The Tiles 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ X
	Unnamed (submitted as Old, Bad, and Ugly Nail-up) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
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Type:	Trad, Aid, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Tim Loften, George Bracksieck
Page Views:	840 total · 11/month
Shared By:	George Bracksieck on Dec 11, 2017 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: This area may not be open to climbing as houses now line the base... Details

Private property issues apply to this cliff.

Description

Around April 25, 1977, I led the first pitch of this route, using aid on much of the first pitch. The start was an overhanging seam/crack, which led to good cracks in the vertical face. After about 95 feet, I reached a juniper and abseiled. Tim cleaned on jumars. We left the rope fixed, so we could finish the route on the following day. David Kozak's 1985 SOUTHWEST ROCK calls this pitch "The Old, Bad and Ugly Nail-up." He says that there is a two-bolt belay. There were no bolts when we were there. He doesn't mention a second pitch.

The following day, we jumared the fixed rope. Tim led the second pitch, using aid in the rain. The second pitch went up a nice crack in a vertical, left-facing dihedral and could go free at 5.10 or 11. The lower pitch could go free, except for (perhaps) the start.

Location

This is the rightmost long route on the main wall.

Protection

I used pitons on the first section, and nuts and pitons above. Cams hadn't been invented. The C3 is Kozak's rating for the aid. Pitons are no longer necessary or desirable for a climb like this.