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Routes in Grazing Allotment Crag

Bodacious S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Casanova Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cowabunga S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Detox Dihedral T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fledgling, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
High Steppin' S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joyride S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mower Blade T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Owl Pellet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pythagorean Rhythm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine and Solitude T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Talon Scout T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: R. Nelson
Page Views: 86 total · 9/month
Shared By: Aaron Johnston on Dec 11, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is a variation on the 5.8 trad line Bud Collins that splits right into a thin, left-facing corner after about 30'. The NCCC guide calls it 5.11c/d, but I had a hard time finding any moves that tough, not to say it was easy...clearly it hasn't been climbed in a while and was dirty, crumbly, and had some committing face climbing with gear well below your feet. It felt like the crux was well-protected however.

The NCCC guide, along with the eye test, didn't show any anchors for lowering, I think this route is supposed to be a walkoff. I ended up doing a wonky traverse to the anchors above High Steppin'. A 70m rope was necessary to toprope/lower from these anchors.

Location

It is on the left side of the south face, on the main slabby part of the wall before all the corners start further left.

Protection

A standard rack.

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