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Routes in Grazing Allotment Crag

Bodacious S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Casanova Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cowabunga S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Detox Dihedral T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fledgling, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
High Steppin' S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joyride S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mower Blade T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Owl Pellet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pythagorean Rhythm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine and Solitude T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Talon Scout T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: R. Nelson
Page Views: 77 total · 12/month
Shared By: Aaron Johnston on Dec 11, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Suggest Change]

This route is a variation on the 5.8 trad line Bud Collins that splits right into a thin, left-facing corner after about 30'. The NCCC guide calls it 5.11c/d, but I had a hard time finding any moves that tough, not to say it was easy...clearly it hasn't been climbed in a while and was dirty, crumbly, and had some committing face climbing with gear well below your feet. It felt like the crux was well-protected however.

The NCCC guide, along with the eye test, didn't show any anchors for lowering, I think this route is supposed to be a walkoff. I ended up doing a wonky traverse to the anchors above High Steppin'. A 70m rope was necessary to toprope/lower from these anchors.

Location [Suggest Change]

It is on the left side of the south face, on the main slabby part of the wall before all the corners start further left.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A standard rack.

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