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Trad, 240 ft, 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.4 from 5
FA: Josh Janes - Winter 2017
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rock
> 12-Oak Creek Ca…
> Black Orpheus Amphith…
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Eurydice is a direct finish to Black Orpheus that replaces the chossy exit slab with two new pitches of spectacular climbing: a wild traverse into outer space and a 5.5 romp with 1000 feet of exposure nipping at your heels - separated by one of the more outrageous belay ledges in all of Red Rocks! If you're climbing Black Orpheus and are up for one more small section of 5.10 at the end of the day, this is unquestionably the way to finish!
P1-9 (5.9+ or 5.10a, 1100'): Begin by climbing through the crux of Black Orpheus (P1-9 in the Handren guide), belaying on the higher of two large ledges in the massive upper corner.
P10 (5.10b, 120'): Climb up the corner as per the original line, but instead of "traversing out right on sloping ledges to the anchor", continue up the corner another body length or two (good medium wires) to a jug. This jug is the start of a ledge/catwalk that breaches the overhanging left wall of the corner. From the jug, hand traverse wildly until it is possible to swing up onto the ledge (crux). Follow this sickeningly exposed ledge all the way out the corner to an incredible crow's nest belay platform and build an anchor in varnished rock using small/medium wires and a small cam (0.3 Camalot or the like).
P11 (5.5, 120'): Climb straight up the slab, hugging the arete (exposed!) until the angle eases very close to the start of the Painted Bowl descent route.
1-2x cams from small to #1 Camalot and a set of wires... Whatever you brought for Black Orpheus should be fine.