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Eurydice

5.10b, Trad, 240 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.4 from 5 votes
FA: Josh Janes - Winter 2017
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > 12-Oak Creek Ca… > Black Orpheus Amphith…
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Eurydice is a direct finish to Black Orpheus that replaces the chossy exit slab with two new pitches of spectacular climbing: a wild traverse into outer space and a 5.5 romp with 1000 feet of exposure nipping at your heels - separated by one of the more outrageous belay ledges in all of Red Rocks! If you're climbing Black Orpheus and are up for one more small section of 5.10 at the end of the day, this is unquestionably the way to finish!

P1-9 (5.9+ or 5.10a, 1100'): Begin by climbing through the crux of Black Orpheus (P1-9 in the Handren guide), belaying on the higher of two large ledges in the massive upper corner.

P10 (5.10b, 120'): Climb up the corner as per the original line, but instead of "traversing out right on sloping ledges to the anchor", continue up the corner another body length or two (good medium wires) to a jug. This jug is the start of a ledge/catwalk that breaches the overhanging left wall of the corner. From the jug, hand traverse wildly until it is possible to swing up onto the ledge (crux). Follow this sickeningly exposed ledge all the way out the corner to an incredible crow's nest belay platform and build an anchor in varnished rock using small/medium wires and a small cam (0.3 Camalot or the like).

P11 (5.5, 120'): Climb straight up the slab, hugging the arete (exposed!) until the angle eases very close to the start of the Painted Bowl descent route.

Protection

1-2x cams from small to #1 Camalot and a set of wires... Whatever you brought for Black Orpheus should be fine.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The final section of the catwalk with the original finish visible in the background.
[Hide Photo] The final section of the catwalk with the original finish visible in the background.
Looking down at the crow's nest belay ledge from the final pitch.
[Hide Photo] Looking down at the crow's nest belay ledge from the final pitch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
[Hide Comment] This looks great! Dec 17, 2017
Chad Elliott
Las Vegas
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] One of the craziest pitches I have ever done. Don't be surprised if you end up crawling for a few feet. Monster death block towards end of traverse. Be careful, It has X's now. Mar 14, 2018