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Great White Fright

5.10c, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Evan Wisheropp and Thomas Rodriguez
California > Redwood Coast > Patrick's Point SP > Wedding Rock

Description

EPIC three pitch voyage straight up from the waterline of the South Face of Wedding Rock. This route has a very particular season, you need to climb it in the winter when all the bird poop has been washed off the cliff, but also when the waves are low enough. The best description comes pitch by pitch.

P1. (5.10c S) Anchor the belayer on some boulders above the waves. Count the waves and when you've got an idea when it's safe to pass, run across the class-3 tidepools (slippery!) and climb the 5.10c overhanging dihedral (Gear .4-2"). Belay on the sloping ledge with three #2 cams.

P2. (5.10c) Climb a hand crack up to a bulge. Place a plethora of gear, including two blue TCUs up high. The crux then is some exciting face climbing on a slightly overhanging wall. Belay on the ledge. (Gear .2-3", Four blue TCUs)

P3. (5.8R) Move back left on the ledge, place a blue TCU, and pull over a bulge being careful of what you're pulling on. Navegate the juggy wall being careful of some questionable blocks. (Gear: .4 and 2-4")

Location

Rock hop down the South Face, Sling a block to belay near the Riptide high tide start. Run across the tidepools between waves to the overhanging dihedral.

Protection

Nuts and minimum doubles in cams .2-4"
(x3) .4, 3"
(x4) Blue TCU and 2"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking down the upper portion of pitch 3
[Hide Photo] Looking down the upper portion of pitch 3
Thomas following the second pitch on the FA
[Hide Photo] Thomas following the second pitch on the FA
Great White Fright topo, clearly showing the wrong timing to cross the tidepools! Look close and you can see this shot is during the FA of the Dirty Girdle.
[Hide Photo] Great White Fright topo, clearly showing the wrong timing to cross the tidepools! Look close and you can see this shot is during the FA of the Dirty Girdle.
The south face with Great White Fright
[Hide Photo] The south face with Great White Fright
Thomas following the first pitch dihedral.
[Hide Photo] Thomas following the first pitch dihedral.
Perfect conditions between waves on the the run-across approach pitch. Climb the overhanging dihedral and belay on the sloping ledge with four #2 cams.
[Hide Photo] Perfect conditions between waves on the the run-across approach pitch. Climb the overhanging dihedral and belay on the sloping ledge with four #2 cams.