Type: Trad, 440 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 573 total · 46/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 7, 2017
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Pegasus weaves an elegant line up the wall to the right of the massive right-facing corner system that forms the left margin of the Mustang Wall. The first three pitches are high quality but the final crux pitch is the real prize: A spectacular splitter crack up a steep wall guarded by a brief section of thin face climbing.

Scramble up a rib of rock to a small ledge just right of a tall, spindly fir tree and rack up at the base of a short crack in black rock.

P1 (5.10a, 150’): Climb the crack and head up a right-facing corner, passing a small ledge, and continuing up into an obvious left-facing corner. Follow this - occasionally stepping out around it to the right to use face holds, but always using the corner itself for pro - until reaching a belay on a cramped ledge near the top of the corner.

P2 (5.10a, 70’): Traverse straight left across a smooth slab, clipping two bolts, on the way to a crack and a nice open book. Follow this upwards to the top of the system and step left to a comfortable belay.

P3 (5.10c, 100’): Face climb up off the belay past a bolt to reach the bottom of a short finger crack. Above this crack step right to gain a second crack and follow this until it too ends. A few face moves lead to the left end of a long belay ledge.

P4: (5.12a, 120’): Move to the right end of the ledge and ascend a short, left-facing corner until it’s possible to clip the first of two bolts. Climb up the face to a serendipitous black knob, clip the second bolt, and traverse rightwards with difficulty to gain the bottom of a splitter finger crack. Follow this incredible crack upwards for 70’ to a steep, smooth wall. Move right around the wall and easily up and back left to an anchor.

Descend by rapping with a 70m rope (watch your ends), utilizing anchors both on and off the route (see topo).

Location

Far left end of the Mustang Wall near a spindly pine tree. About 80’ right of a massive right-facing corner system. Accessible via a 4th class scramble up a rib of rock along the base of the wall.

Protection

1x small to #2 Camalot
1 set of wired stoppers
70m rope minimum for rappeling

Photos

Josh Janes

  5.12a
Josh Janes    
  5.12a
The history of this route is interesting. The first ascensionist spotted and envisioned the line in 2016 and returned to investigate more closely: Leading sections, toproping other sections, cleaning rock, and in general putting the pieces together for a free ascent. Prior to that ascent, a certain local well known for inviting controversy heard about these plans and, despite an invitation to participate in the process, instead chose to race up to the wall on his own, placing various pro bolts and anchors on the route without doing proper due diligence. Unfortunately, while some of these are useful, some are poorly located and others unnecessary. It would be nice to see these fixed, but it is neither the first ascensionist’s nor my wish to start a bolt war on this beautiful wall. Even as is, however, this route is fun, well-protected, and a great climb for future parties to enjoy. Dec 7, 2017