Type: Trad, 440 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,028 total · 32/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 7, 2017
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Pegasus weaves an elegant line up the wall to the right of the massive right-facing corner system that forms the left margin of the Mustang Wall. The first three pitches are high quality but the final crux pitch is the real prize: A spectacular splitter crack up a steep wall guarded by a brief section of thin face climbing.

Scramble up a rib of rock to a small ledge just right of a tall, spindly fir tree and rack up at the base of a short crack in black rock.

P1 (5.10a, 150’): Climb the crack and head up a right-facing corner, passing a small ledge, and continuing up into an obvious left-facing corner. Follow this - occasionally stepping out around it to the right to use face holds, but always using the corner itself for pro - until reaching a belay on a cramped ledge near the top of the corner.

P2 (5.10a, 70’): Traverse straight left across a smooth slab, clipping two bolts, on the way to a crack and a nice open book. Follow this upwards to the top of the system and step left to a comfortable belay.

P3 (5.10c, 100’): Face climb up off the belay past a bolt to reach the bottom of a short finger crack. Above this crack step right to gain a second crack and follow this until it too ends. A few face moves lead to the left end of a long belay ledge.

P4: (5.12a, 120’): Move to the right end of the ledge and ascend a short, left-facing corner until it’s possible to clip the first of two bolts. Climb up the face to a serendipitous black knob, clip the second bolt, and traverse rightwards with difficulty to gain the bottom of a splitter finger crack. Follow this incredible crack upwards for 70’ to a steep, smooth wall. Move right around the wall and easily up and back left to an anchor.

Descend by rapping with a 70m rope (watch your ends), utilizing anchors both on and off the route (see topo).

Location

Far left end of the Mustang Wall near a spindly pine tree. About 80’ right of a massive right-facing corner system. Accessible via a 4th class scramble up a rib of rock along the base of the wall.

Protection

1x small to #2 Camalot
1 set of wired stoppers
70m rope minimum for rappeling

Photos