Dirtbag Dreams
WI4+,
Trad, Ice, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade V,
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
FA: Late October, 2017
International
> N America
> Canada
> Alberta
> Banff NP
> Protection Valley
Description
A fun, big, interesting line in a remote, hard to access valley. When snow height is down and access easier, it becomes a destination line in the valley. The route offers a wide variety of terrain with good pro and is a good objective for a remote multi-pitch ice experience.The ice is thin in places, swing gently and screw slowly to avoid damaging points. Rock gear might be handy near the top of P1.
P1; Climb thin ice to a steep rock slot, then up the snow ledge to a fixed anchor (pins) on the right. Rock gear might be helpful if the ice is thin. 190'
P2; Move left and climb thin ice that improves as you go, setting up a sheltered belay in an alcove. 130'
P3; Climb as steep shield of ice off the belay, and continue up and left to a comfortable belay in a another alcove. 110'
P4; Climb steep, continuous ice to v-threads just below the top. 170'
Location
This route is located deep in Protection Valley, on the right side, behind Castle Mountain. Scramble up a steep slope (avalanche prone) and a comfortable belay station at the base of the route.
Protection
Screws, rock gear, occasional v-threads along the way.
[Hide Photo] Climb the right side of the ice. Top of first pitch is a fixed pin anchor, all other anchors are v-threads. Approximate belay positions marked.
[Hide Photo] Paul Gardner finishing the approach to Dirtbag Dreams at just the right time.
Canmore, AB