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Routes in Protection Valley

Dirtbag Dreams T WI4+
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Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade V
FA: Late October, 2017
Page Views: 65 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Dec 7, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

A fun, big, interesting line in a remote, hard to access valley. When snow height is down and access easier, it becomes a destination line in the valley. The route offers a wide variety of terrain with good pro and is a good objective for a remote multi-pitch ice experience.The ice is thin in places, swing gently and screw slowly to avoid damaging points. Rock gear might be handy near the top of P1.

P1; Climb thin ice to a steep rock slot, then up the snow ledge to a fixed anchor (pins) on the right. Rock gear might be helpful if the ice is thin. 190'
P2; Move left and climb thin ice that improves as you go, setting up a sheltered belay in an alcove. 130'
P3; Climb as steep shield of ice off the belay, and continue up and left to a comfortable belay in a another alcove. 110'
P4; Climb steep, continuous ice to v-threads just below the top. 170'

Location

This route is located deep in Protection Valley, on the right side, behind Castle Mountain. Scramble up a steep slope (avalanche prone) and a comfortable belay station at the base of the route.

Protection

Screws, rock gear, occasional v-threads along the way.

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