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Haiku

5.14a, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
FA: Chris Weidner, October 24, 2017. Equipped by Matt Samet
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Boulder Slips
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Description

A power-endurance test, this short, fierce route follows cracks and seams up the steep wall just right of La Lune. Clip the first bolt of La Lune, and continue with easy climbing to the first bolts of Haiku. Stem left to engage the overhang, which offers 17 moves (at least the way it was first climbed) to the lip. Finish up a dihedral, then step left to the anchor.

This was done in memory of Hayden Kennedy, whose life was brief yet powerful.

Protection

6 bolts. It's recommended to stick-clip the 3rd bolt (the 2nd new bolt). Finger tape on both index fingers was essential on the first ascent.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking out at Haiku from the belay alcove shared with La Lune.
[Hide Photo] Looking out at Haiku from the belay alcove shared with La Lune.
Lowering off after the FA.
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Photo: Emily Matherly.
[Hide Photo] Lowering off after the FA. Photo: Emily Matherly.
Liam Foster on Haiku on send day.
[Hide Photo] Liam Foster on Haiku on send day.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This route is deserving of more attention. It has a convenient approach and a long season (am sun, pm shade). It is indeed a bit painful but also quite fun, with a power endurance style atypical of Boulder Canyon. Relatively speaking, there are no small holds, and in fact most of the holds are pretty big. I think it's worth noting that someone strong, and probably a bit masochistic, could do this route safely on gear, which would make it one of the hardest trad routes in the Boulder area. Hats off to Matt and Chris for finding another one! Dec 9, 2019
Mason Caiby
RVA
 
[Hide Comment] Agree with Wharton above, a really enjoyable pitch. I taped the left index and didn't find it to be too painful once I'd figured out the beta.

That said, if you have unhealthy fingies or your knees hurt from too much skiing, I'd stay away. This is a drop knee testpiece with plenty of finger crack. Jan 17, 2022