PRINT: Rock Climb South Face, Even More Right, Indian Creek

South Face, Even More Right

5.7, Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 3 from 11 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > S Sixshooter

Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! Details

Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…

2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.

Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.

Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.

In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.

While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.

For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.

blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

This line has been mentioned previously on MP (see this photo), but I thought it deserved its own entry. If anyone knows of FA or actual route name info, let me know and I will amend this description.

When facing the peak's south face, this line ascends a fairly clear route below the left side of the right summit. Just 15 feet to the right of the deep stem-box that contains the South Face Right route, follow a line of paired weaknesses up the cracked face, left of the huge square-bottomed hanging flake, over an out-thrust block, to a huge ledge on the right with a bolted rap station on a boulder. It's about 80 ft to here. Fun and sustained climbing! Better than the standard route, which is often jammed up anyway.

From this belay, take one or two more leads, heading up and left through the broken blocky corner to gain the notch between the twin summits and thence to the summit of your choice,

Location

Rapping with a single 70 works from the East summit to the bolted block on the ledge and then to the ground works fine. Doing that with a single 60 hasn't been tested by this reporter, but I have a suspicion that it's probably good; **(the issue is if a 60 reaches from the east summit to the bolted block).... Please report back if you know.

Protection

Doubles suffice. Nothing big.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

South Face, Even more right (5.7), South Six Shooter, UT. Looking up from base.

South Face, Even more right (5.7), South Six Shooter, UT
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Blue diacritics mark the route; XX at the bolted boulder rap station.
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Brown line is the 5.9 S Face Rt.

South Face, Even more right (5.7), South Six Shooter, UT Blue diacritics mark the route; XX at the bolted boulder rap station. Brown line is the 5.9 S Face Rt.