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Routes in Putterman's Outhouse Ampitheatre
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Putterman's Pinkies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft |
| FA: | Luke Laeser, Cameron Burns, Mel Macdonnell, Ann Robertson 10/30/94 |
| Page Views: | 107 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | slim on Nov 30, 2017 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
Putterman's Pinkies is a great little dihedral route put up by desert rats Luke Laeser and Cam Burns in the mid to late 90's.
Make a few easy face/mantle moves to access the crack about 10 feet up. Launch up through super sticky fingers which quickly widen to rattly fingers, then tight hands. The route surprisingly ends at a small ledge, just as the crack goes locker hands. It looked like this could probably continue with another 20 feet or so of great climbing.
The crack is ultra sharp/crisp. It probably hasn't seen many ascents. This is about as good as Entrada gets. Bjornstadt gives it 10a ***** and Kelley gives it 10c ***.
Make a few easy face/mantle moves to access the crack about 10 feet up. Launch up through super sticky fingers which quickly widen to rattly fingers, then tight hands. The route surprisingly ends at a small ledge, just as the crack goes locker hands. It looked like this could probably continue with another 20 feet or so of great climbing.
The crack is ultra sharp/crisp. It probably hasn't seen many ascents. This is about as good as Entrada gets. Bjornstadt gives it 10a ***** and Kelley gives it 10c ***.
Location
Follow the wash South until you can make your way up left on some easy talus to the base of a big, sweet looking pink dihedral. This will be above and to the right of Putterman's Outhouse, maybe a couple hundred feet.
- ** Note: High Over Moab generally describes this as being on Neighbor of Putterman, which is one formation West of House of Putterman. This isn't correct, it is actually approximately 2 formations East of House of Putterman and the driving approach is significantly different.
Protection
Doubles of 0.3 camalots to #1 camalots, with extra in the 0.5 and 0.75 (maybe 3 or 4 each).
The anchor consists of a good 1/2" bolt, an ~OK 3/8" bolt, and an old friend. When I climbed the route, one of the old 3/8" bolts had fallen out of it's hole and was dangling in tat. bring spare webbing and/or cord to spruce up the anchor if needed.
The anchor consists of a good 1/2" bolt, an ~OK 3/8" bolt, and an old friend. When I climbed the route, one of the old 3/8" bolts had fallen out of it's hole and was dangling in tat. bring spare webbing and/or cord to spruce up the anchor if needed.
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