Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||FRA Sam Boyce, Andy Stephan|
|Page Views:||123 total · 33/month|
|Shared By:||Sam Boyce on Nov 30, 2017|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis route links the obvious arcing crack systems up the middle of the upper face to make for a surprisingly moderate line up a fairly sizable feature. The position is wild and exposed for the grade. The best way to climb this route would be to climb a route on the lower tier such as "green eggs and sam" then link into this route, making for a fun and adventurous 1700' romp.
Access from the top of the 4th class ramp system that cuts the middle of the wall. Start in the lefthand of the two crack systems.
P1- 200' 5.7+; a boulder problem (crux of route) accesses a low angle crack to a chimney, follow the crack above to a good ledge.
P2- 140' 5.4; Continue up the easy ramp following the crack, just before an obvious small tree, traverse easily and unprotected accross a face to a good ledge below a thin crack.
P3- 160' 5.6; Climb straight up the awesome thin crack to a good belay ledge by a crispy wide crack.
P4- 100' 5.7; Climb the crispy #4 crack on the left. this has the worst rock of the day. Continue up to a bulbous belay ledge.
P5- 130' 5.7 PG13; not the best lead for a 5.7 climber. Climb up and right to exit the bulb. Go up a few moves in the corner then traverse the face to the left with marginal gear, follow the seem above to a belay ledge.
P6- 200' 5.2; Head up the right trending ramp with a crack, quickly turns to 4th class. Stretch your rope out to the summit ridge.
Move your belay to the base of the summit tower
P7- 80' 5.7; Climb the left hand skyline of the summit tower with surprisingly good gear belay on the summit.
Decent- Single rope rap off the opposite side of the formation leads to the gully below. Escape the gully here and scramble down the large bowl. Continue up and over the next dome in front of you angling up and left accessing the scramblers route below the summit tower of the peak above.