PRINT: Rock Climb Sandstone Slalom, Red Rocks

Sandstone Slalom

5.7+ PG13, Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches, Grade III,

Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: FRA Andrew Fulton - Mark McDaniels
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Sandstone Canyon > Wave

Access Issue: No access via State Park Details

The Spring Mountain Ranch State Park would be the obvious access point for the canyon; however, they do not allow access to the canyon through their land and have rangers patrolling regularly. Currently, the only legal access options are from the back side (west), or the north and south mouths of the canyon, carefully skirting along the borders of the state park to avoid trespassing.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

This route links the obvious arcing crack systems up the middle of the upper face to make for a surprisingly moderate line up a fairly sizable feature. The position is wild and exposed for the grade. The best way to climb this route would be to climb a route on the lower tier such as "green eggs and sam" then link into this route, making for a fun and adventurous 1700' romp.

Access from the top of the 4th class ramp system that cuts the middle of the wall. Start in the lefthand of the two crack systems.

P1- 200' 5.7+; a boulder problem (crux of route) accesses a low angle crack to a chimney, follow the crack above to a good ledge.

P2- 140' 5.4; Continue up the easy ramp following the crack, just before an obvious small tree, traverse easily and unprotected accross a face to a good ledge below a thin crack.

P3- 160' 5.6; Climb straight up the awesome thin crack to a good belay ledge by a crispy wide crack.

P4- 100' 5.7; Climb the crispy #4 crack on the left. this has the worst rock of the day. Continue up to a bulbous belay ledge.

P5- 130' 5.7 PG13; not the best lead for a 5.7 climber. Climb up and right to exit the bulb. Go up a few moves in the corner then traverse the face to the left with marginal gear, follow the seem above to a belay ledge.

P6- 200' 5.2; Head up the right trending ramp with a crack, quickly turns to 4th class. Stretch your rope out to the summit ridge.

Move your belay to the base of the summit tower

P7- 80' 5.7; Climb the left hand skyline of the summit tower with surprisingly good gear belay on the summit.

Decent- Single rope rap off the opposite side of the formation leads to the gully below. Escape the gully here and scramble down the large bowl. Continue up and over the next dome in front of you angling up and left accessing the scramblers route below the summit tower of the peak above.

Location

Up the middle of the face on the upper tier of the feature

Protection

Single rack micro to 4, double fingers to hands, single rack offset nuts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

overview.
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Yellow- green eggs and sam
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Blue- The Wave

overview. Yellow- green eggs and sam Blue- The Wave

overview

p5 traverse

P4, belay ledge for p4 just below

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

A. Fulton

Hey this was brought to my attention this afternoon by my great friend and climbing partner Mike Ward.

Mike wanted to let me know that some climbers were claiming the FA of a route that was established in June of 1998 on the North Face of Sandstone Mountain by myself and another young local who enjoyed doing First Ascents as well.
(I have pictures)

I would've submitted the info many many years ago to Jerry Handren but he did not want to publish information on climbing in areas with restricted access in Red Rock Canyon. Fair enough, and I am sure the State of Nevada and the BLM appreciate that.

Obviously Mountain Project has no qualms with this?

The name of our route is the - "Sandstone Slalom" due to the SKI TRACKS that arc down and left across the formation.

The FA was done by myself (Andrew Fulton) and Mark McDaniels.

To get up to the base of the ski tracks we climbed a fantastic crack system on good varnished rock that took us up to the base of the ski tracks. The hardest of those pitches was 5.9+.

Once we started up the ski tracks, the climbing wandered back and forth between the two ski tracks always offering good protection.

Naturally we topped out on the west shoulder of the formation as that's where the crack system ends.

We rated the climbing 5.7ish as well.

Sandstone Slalom - North Face of Sandstone Mountain (a Grade IV day)
FA - June 1998
Andrew Fulton - Mark McDaniels

Mark McDaniels lives up in Reno and I am sure can be reached out to for verification.

I live here in the Las Vegas area and am easily reached out to as well.

Cheers,

Andrew Fulton May 24, 2018

Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA

Hey Andrew, thanks for sharing your info. One of my favorite things about public climbing sites is we can get updates from the FAists and others that know each area's history.

I know Mountain Project's policy is to remove areas with closed access, and communicate ones with special limits. Which is Sandstone Canyon?

Thanks. May 30, 2018