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Routes in The Wave

Green Eggs and Sam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandstone Slalom T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Siren's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: FRA Andrew Fulton - Mark McDaniels
Page Views: 241 total · 35/month
Shared By: Sam Boyce on Nov 30, 2017
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This route links the obvious arcing crack systems up the middle of the upper face to make for a surprisingly moderate line up a fairly sizable feature. The position is wild and exposed for the grade. The best way to climb this route would be to climb a route on the lower tier such as "green eggs and sam" then link into this route, making for a fun and adventurous 1700' romp.
Access from the top of the 4th class ramp system that cuts the middle of the wall. Start in the lefthand of the two crack systems.
P1- 200' 5.7+; a boulder problem (crux of route) accesses a low angle crack to a chimney, follow the crack above to a good ledge.
P2- 140' 5.4; Continue up the easy ramp following the crack, just before an obvious small tree, traverse easily and unprotected accross a face to a good ledge below a thin crack.
P3- 160' 5.6; Climb straight up the awesome thin crack to a good belay ledge by a crispy wide crack.
P4- 100' 5.7; Climb the crispy #4 crack on the left. this has the worst rock of the day. Continue up to a bulbous belay ledge.
P5- 130' 5.7 PG13; not the best lead for a 5.7 climber. Climb up and right to exit the bulb. Go up a few moves in the corner then traverse the face to the left with marginal gear, follow the seem above to a belay ledge.
P6- 200' 5.2; Head up the right trending ramp with a crack, quickly turns to 4th class. Stretch your rope out to the summit ridge.
Move your belay to the base of the summit tower
P7- 80' 5.7; Climb the left hand skyline of the summit tower with surprisingly good gear belay on the summit.

Decent- Single rope rap off the opposite side of the formation leads to the gully below. Escape the gully here and scramble down the large bowl. Continue up and over the next dome in front of you angling up and left accessing the scramblers route below the summit tower of the peak above.

Location [Suggest Change]

Up the middle of the face on the upper tier of the feature

Protection [Suggest Change]

Single rack micro to 4, double fingers to hands, single rack offset nuts.

Photos

Hey this was brought to my attention this afternoon by my great friend and climbing partner Mike Ward.

Mike wanted to let me know that some climbers were claiming the FA of a route that was established in June of 1998 on the North Face of Sandstone Mountain by myself and another young local who enjoyed doing First Ascents as well.
(I have pictures)

I would've submitted the info many many years ago to Jerry Handren but he did not want to publish information on climbing in areas with restricted access in Red Rock Canyon. Fair enough, and I am sure the State of Nevada and the BLM appreciate that.

Obviously Mountain Project has no qualms with this?

The name of our route is the - "Sandstone Slalom" due to the SKI TRACKS that arc down and left across the formation.

The FA was done by myself (Andrew Fulton) and Mark McDaniels.

To get up to the base of the ski tracks we climbed a fantastic crack system on good varnished rock that took us up to the base of the ski tracks. The hardest of those pitches was 5.9+.

Once we started up the ski tracks, the climbing wandered back and forth between the two ski tracks always offering good protection.

Naturally we topped out on the west shoulder of the formation as that's where the crack system ends.

We rated the climbing 5.7ish as well.

Sandstone Slalom - North Face of Sandstone Mountain (a Grade IV day)
FA - June 1998
Andrew Fulton - Mark McDaniels

Mark McDaniels lives up in Reno and I am sure can be reached out to for verification.

I live here in the Las Vegas area and am easily reached out to as well.

Cheers,

Andrew Fulton May 24, 2018
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
Hey Andrew, thanks for sharing your info. One of my favorite things about public climbing sites is we can get updates from the FAists and others that know each area's history.

I know Mountain Project's policy is to remove areas with closed access, and communicate ones with special limits. Which is Sandstone Canyon?

Thanks. May 30, 2018

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