Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Lo Spirito dei Montani

5.9, Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 7 pitches,  Avg: 3.4 from 29 votes
FA: Paolo Benetti, Dylan Harris
International > S America > Argentina > Rio Negro > San Carlos de B… > Cerro Ventana Sur > Multipitch Routes
Warning Access Issue: Beware of loose rock! DetailsDrop down

Description

Popular route that goes straight up the face for 500 feet. Very good belay ledges. Amazing views and shade in the morning. Route was done all on lead ground up by Paolo Benetti. Most of the climbing is easy 5th class to 5.7 and then there are a few short cruxes up to 5.9. There is some loose rock, especially on the ledges, bring a helmet and be careful! DON'T RAPPEL if someone is below you. The walkoff is much quicker, safer and easier. Though this a comfortable bolted multipitch climb you can still get hurt or worse so act accordingly.

Location

Hike up the gully to Ventana Sur sport climbing sector, and go 200ft further. On your left is the route.

Protection

Bring 10-15 quickdraws or alpine slings. Most pitches can be linked together with enough draws. All anchors have rap rings set up for a single 60m rope rappel. From the top you can walk off using a narrow ledge system that goes down and right towards the route Sirtaki. Look for the sign and cairns to see the ledge descent. It is not a 4th class descent as one comment suggests, rather a simple walk/scramble.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

FA mate' break
[Hide Photo] FA mate' break
Vista desde la reunion del 4° Largo.
[Hide Photo] Vista desde la reunion del 4° Largo.
Vista desde el final del 6° Largo.
[Hide Photo] Vista desde el final del 6° Largo.
View from the third belay station to the south west
[Hide Photo] View from the third belay station to the south west
The route start is labeled. It's about 150 feet past the detached pillar with sport routes on it.
[Hide Photo] The route start is labeled. It's about 150 feet past the detached pillar with sport routes on it.
Pitch 5
[Hide Photo] Pitch 5

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Oran Frydman
Herzliya, IL
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Easy & fun adventure, highly recommended very well bolted.
good multi pitch for beginners Sep 2, 2018
Fiend4Epics
 
[Hide Comment] This is adventure climbing! You can enjoy solitude, incredible views, and if you’re lucky, condors dancing around you on the summit! Dec 13, 2018
Erik Ljungmann
Buenos Aires, AR
 
[Hide Comment] Very nice and enjoyable route!! Thanx a lot to Dylan and Paolo for this gem! Feb 25, 2019
Gonzalo de Alba
Bariloche
 
[Hide Comment] Ya es un clásico esta vía. Se llega fácil al píe de vía y se puede bajar caminando evitando algunos rapel. Nov 17, 2019
David Scott
On the Road, USA
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] Starts about 25 meters uphill of detached pillar (obvious). There are about 5-6 routes right of pillar. Montani is to the right. First pitch passed obvious orange scar just before the anchor. Link P1 and P2 with 14 draws. Link P6 and P7 with about 8 draws. Makes climb 5 pitches: 4+, 5+, 5+, 5+, 5. Easy for the grade and very well protected. Moderate walk off/scramble well signed and cairns. Great route worth doing if a little dirty. Bring a light shell. It's in the shade and was chilly with the wind. Dec 31, 2019
Robin Agricola
North Easton, MA
[Hide Comment] Definitely well-bolted. Alpine style sport climbing, very unique. The route is dirty with a lot of loose rock. In fact, a basketball-sized boulder flew past us and smashed into the wall while we were starting P3. Helmets are a MUST! For that same reason, I can see why the recommended descent is the hike off. However, be prepared...while it's relatively safe, it is probably 4th class scrambling with a few rope systems and hand lines to protect parts of the down climb. I wouldn't say this was my favorite multi-pitch by any means, but the view from the top...WOW! Worth every "uhh...is THAT hold gonna break?"

Note about parking...there is a pull off just past the barrier system. There is a cairn on top of the barrier marking the place where you start bushwhacking up. Stay in the bouldery gulley...the little side paths are steep, with loose dirt that is almost impossible to not fall up :-) Feb 13, 2020
Eduardo Lopez
Bariloche, AR
 
[Hide Comment] We climbed this route and it is an exceptional climb. We can do the rappels but maybe is better if you descend by walk. Congratulations to the apertures! Wonderful views and it is very enjoy to climb safe. It is obvious to take care with possible fall stones. Nov 29, 2022
Leslie H
Keystone
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Super fun! Stunning views! Nov 19, 2023