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Routes in 4. Fern Cliff

Right Gully TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wander Up Donkey TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: TR, 38 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 28 total · 3/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 29, 2017
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Fun interesting moves, even if don't get the crux exit.

At the left end of the Fern Cliff main face, see roof up high with crack on its right side that bends left. Start about 10 feet right of the left end. Overhang off the ground, then diagonal up left to right end of roof. Traverse horizontal Right about ten feet, then up vertical right-facing crack to get onto slab above main face. Finish up the easy slab to the top of the cliff.

warning: Loose rock is still a concern here. Belayer or other members of party should not stand anywhere near underneath the climber.

warning: In particular, one of the two obvious plates near the right end of the high roof is a little loose.

Location

On the face (with low overhang) to right of Fern Cliff main face (on the right side extending to meet left side of sector Dime Store.

- - > see on this Photo

Protection

Top-Roping: Long static line from natural protection is obvious way to set up top. Need to rappel or down-climb in from top of cliff to set carabiners for belay low enough to avoid dragging or abrasion of belay rope across edge.

For more ideas how to set up Top-Rope, see description of the Dime Store sector just right of this.

Lead? Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

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