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Routes in 4. Fern Cliff
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Right Gully TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Wander Up Donkey TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | TR, 38 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | TR Ken Roberts |
| Page Views: | 678 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Nov 29, 2017 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Fun interesting moves, even if don't get the crux exit.
At the left end of the Fern Cliff main face, see roof up high with crack on its right side that bends left. Start about 10 feet right of the left end. Overhang off the ground, then diagonal up left to right end of roof. Traverse horizontal Right about ten feet, then up vertical right-facing crack to get onto slab above main face. Finish up the easy slab to the top of the cliff.
warning: Loose rock is still a concern here. Belayer or other members of party should not stand anywhere near underneath the climber.
warning: In particular, one of the two obvious plates near the right end of the high roof is a little loose.
At the left end of the Fern Cliff main face, see roof up high with crack on its right side that bends left. Start about 10 feet right of the left end. Overhang off the ground, then diagonal up left to right end of roof. Traverse horizontal Right about ten feet, then up vertical right-facing crack to get onto slab above main face. Finish up the easy slab to the top of the cliff.
warning: Loose rock is still a concern here. Belayer or other members of party should not stand anywhere near underneath the climber.
warning: In particular, one of the two obvious plates near the right end of the high roof is a little loose.
Location
On the face (with low overhang) to right of Fern Cliff main face (on the right side extending to meet left side of sector Dime Store.
- - > see on this Photo
- - > see on this Photo
Protection
Top-Roping: Long static line from natural protection is obvious way to set up top. Need to rappel or down-climb in from top of cliff to set carabiners for belay low enough to avoid dragging or abrasion of belay rope across edge.
For more ideas how to set up Top-Rope, see description of the Dime Store sector just right of this.
Lead? Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
For more ideas how to set up Top-Rope, see description of the Dime Store sector just right of this.
Lead? Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
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