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Blast From the Past

5.10-, Trad, 115 ft (35 m),  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: FRA. Joshua Holcomb, Justin Streit, Thao Vo, Joshua Gale 11.18.17
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (09) Icebox Canyon > Sunnyside Crags
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description

The route is obvious and easily approached but w/o further info, its hard to know whether its been climbed before. So, I listed this route as a "first recorded ascent." The F.A. info can always be changed if someone feels they got to this one first.

The climbing starts under a roof by ascending a 15 foot tall v-slot with semi rotten but juggy holds. No worthwhile protection in this section but the climbing is easy. You're now at a good stance from which you can place finger sized gear in a roof crack that is comprised of great rock. Pull the crux roof. After the crux, the climbing is no harder than 5.5. Follow the easy crack as it angles up and slightly left to a big ledge (Some rattle-y rock can be found in this section but its easy to avoid. It could be cleaned up nicely by a follower on subsequent ascents). Continue up through edges and horizontals, gradually aiming leftward towards the arete and left edge of a small overlap. You're now at a leftward traversing ledge system. Follow it for 15-20 feet to a nice seat/stance at a vertical crack in which to build the anchor. Walk off.

Location

About 300 yards closer to the parking lot than the other Sunnyside routes but with some added elevation gain from the canyon floor. You'll be on a southeast facing, varnished wall. The route starts under a roof in a shallow, 1/2 rotten v-slot on the left side of the formation. Walk off.

Protection

Single rack from fingers to #4 camalot. Anchor takes #1-#4 camalots.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Fun moves through the roof. Josh Holcomb with the onsight f.a., in approach shoes.
[Hide Photo] Fun moves through the roof. Josh Holcomb with the onsight f.a., in approach shoes.
Josh Holcomb.
[Hide Photo] Josh Holcomb.
Route location and line.
[Hide Photo] Route location and line.
Josh Holcomb.
[Hide Photo] Josh Holcomb.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

1j1
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] Josh Holcomb = onsight f.a. w/ approach shoes. Nov 29, 2017