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Blast From the Past
5.10-,
Trad, 115 ft (35 m),
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
FA: FRA. Joshua Holcomb, Justin Streit, Thao Vo, Joshua Gale 11.18.17
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (09) Icebox Canyon
> Sunnyside Crags
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
The route is obvious and easily approached but w/o further info, its hard to know whether its been climbed before. So, I listed this route as a "first recorded ascent." The F.A. info can always be changed if someone feels they got to this one first.
The climbing starts under a roof by ascending a 15 foot tall v-slot with semi rotten but juggy holds. No worthwhile protection in this section but the climbing is easy. You're now at a good stance from which you can place finger sized gear in a roof crack that is comprised of great rock. Pull the crux roof. After the crux, the climbing is no harder than 5.5. Follow the easy crack as it angles up and slightly left to a big ledge (Some rattle-y rock can be found in this section but its easy to avoid. It could be cleaned up nicely by a follower on subsequent ascents). Continue up through edges and horizontals, gradually aiming leftward towards the arete and left edge of a small overlap. You're now at a leftward traversing ledge system. Follow it for 15-20 feet to a nice seat/stance at a vertical crack in which to build the anchor. Walk off.
Location
About 300 yards closer to the parking lot than the other Sunnyside routes but with some added elevation gain from the canyon floor. You'll be on a southeast facing, varnished wall. The route starts under a roof in a shallow, 1/2 rotten v-slot on the left side of the formation. Walk off.
Protection
Single rack from fingers to #4 camalot. Anchor takes #1-#4 camalots.
[Hide Photo] Fun moves through the roof. Josh Holcomb with the onsight f.a., in approach shoes.
[Hide Photo] Josh Holcomb.