All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Sandstone Canyon > Wave

Siren's Arete

Name: Siren's Arete
Rating: 3.5

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in The Wave

L › R R › L A › Z

	Green Eggs and Sam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sandstone Slalom T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Siren's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
GPS:	36.06242, -115.47314
FA:	FRA Sam Boyce, Kyle Willis Nov 2017
Page Views:	3,283 total · 31/month
Shared By:	Sam Boyce on Nov 28, 2017
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: No access via State Park Details

The Spring Mountain Ranch State Park would be the obvious access point for the canyon; however, they do not allow access to the canyon through their land and have rangers patrolling regularly. Currently, the only legal access options are from the back side (west), or the north and south mouths of the canyon, carefully skirting along the borders of the state park to avoid trespassing.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

This is a really cool ridge climb on the west end of the feature. It is mostly easy rambling with a couple sections of fun climbing on generally good rock. It is very much an adventure climb. It starts on the ledge where "cthulu rises" tops out.

P1 5.7 180’ Head up on bullet-proof chocolate varnish, cool climbing leads up and right to a large roof with comically large holds. continue up the easy corner to a nice stance below a slab.

P2 5.3 180’ Head up the easy and well featured slab, step down and left where it steepens to a nice belay ledge

P3 5.8 200’ A right facing corner above leads to the crux roof, then run your rope to the base of the summit tower.

P4 5.7 60’ Well protected face climbing on the left hand edge of the tower leads to the summit

Decent- Single 30m rappel takes you down into the gully below the tower. from there a 3rd class exit skiers left provides you with access to the large slabby basin. Head up and over the bulge (top of the gecko wall) up-canyon of where you are and hike up and south to link into the scramblers route.