Speckman's (Originally named Speckman's First Aid Climb)
5.12 R,
Trad, 65 ft (20 m),
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
FA: FA: Todd Swain & Kim Speckman 1977; FFA Scott Stevenson 1985
New Hampshire
> Pawtuckaway
> Devil's Den
Access Issue: Parking Issues: Starting 10/24/20 a reservation will be required to park at Reservation Rd. on all days and for the Backside on the weekends. See
Details
Description
A thin crack that tapers out just when you need it most, climb it to the horizontal break, then plug some good gear, rest, and finish the last 15 or so feet on perfect 5.9 edges.The protection is dubious and the crux is hard, but damn is the climbing good. When you are up there you may wonder how you are sticking to the rock at all, and when you fall it will probably be just as unexpected. Bring your footwork, crimping skills, extra skin, and laser focus to this fight.
The route used to hit the horizontal break, then trend right into the Bates route, however there was an "A3 Hooks" variation which climbs 5.9 edges directly above the break. The current free route goes to the horizontal break, and continues directly up through this "A3" section to a two bolt anchor at the top of the cliff.
Originally done at 5.6 A2, this route was reportedly freed in 1985 at 5.12-PG. According to the '95 Todd Swain Guide, the route was sometimes referred to as "Why are the pins so far apart?". The PG protection grade, "AKA" name, and one particular pin scar lead me to believe that there was at least one pin fixed in the crux on the first ascent that is no longer there, leaving the route a very scary test piece. When my friend heard that it was 'PG' he said, "Potential Ground-fall?".
Location
Located on the blank looking wall in the middle of Devil's Den. It is a thin seam that ends at a horizontal break.
Protection
1 Bolt, thin gear for the crack, and a .75, #1, or #2 for the horizontal break. Protecting the crux from a ground fall is difficult, Ballnuts seem to be the only thing that work.
![Eli Buzzell at the top of the business section of the route, during a very impressive redpoint]()
[Hide Photo] Eli Buzzell at the top of the business section of the route, during a very impressive redpoint
![Shawn in the upper part of the crux, about to place a good piece after running it out on a micronut. The micronut's wire exploded later that day during a fall.]()
[Hide Photo] Shawn in the upper part of the crux, about to place a good piece after running it out on a micronut. The micronut's wire exploded later that day during a fall.
![Starting the run out 5.9 section
<br>
Photo: Ethan Brother]()
[Hide Photo] Starting the run out 5.9 section Photo: Ethan Brother
![Reaching for the little crimp
<br>
Photo: Ethan Brother]()
[Hide Photo] Reaching for the little crimp Photo: Ethan Brother
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noco
New London, NH
From the base of the route walk right and start scrambling up the steep hillside where some tree roots provide perfect hand holds. Continue up and trend left as much as possible until you can head up a gully and pass through a cave formed by a boulder. Pop up from the cave and look left for a big tree down a small step on a ledge. Rappel off the tree but direct the rope hard climbers left. Lower past another ledge staying left and you should be on top of the chains. Apr 2, 2024