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Routes in The Joint

1000 Churches S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ambro-agie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bad Brain S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Brain S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Big Smoke S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bluebeard S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Broken Heroes S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Feel The Bern S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Full Tilt S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Get Wacky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kilodeer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Big Shot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Obscured by Clowns S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
October Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rift, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TS Arete S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Ziggurat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Steve Bechtel, 2007
Page Views: 109 total · 56/month
Shared By: Jikimika Dinglehoffer on Nov 26, 2017
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

Stick clip the first bolt, do an interesting move to get off the ground and into a stance with jugs. Leave the stance and climb through high quality red pegmatite on a slight overhang. Enter a technical boulder problem with tiny directional crimps. Expect to crimp some 2-finger crystals. That said, the crux is probably the footwork: flexibility goes a long way. The movement is static and intricate: I did 13 hand moves in 20 feet. This gives way to nice positive crimping and a deceptively pumpy finish. Really cool crux and pretty rock. A possible detractor would be the sharpness of a couple of holds.

Location

On the first tier at the tall section of the joint. On the right side between Kid Gloves and Big Smoke. Goes through a distinctive red swath of rock, black streak to the left, green streak to the right.

Protection

5 bolts to 2 ring anchor

Photos

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