Broken Heroes [Suggest Change]
Avg: 3 from 5 votes
|Type:||Sport, 40 ft|
|FA:||Steve Bechtel, 2007|
|Page Views:||201 total · 29/month|
|Shared By:||Jikimika Dinglehoffer on Nov 26, 2017|
Description [Suggest Change]
Stick clip the first bolt, do an interesting move to get off the ground and into a stance with jugs. Leave the stance and climb through high quality red pegmatite on a slight overhang. Enter a technical boulder problem with tiny directional crimps. Expect to crimp some 2-finger crystals. That said, the crux is probably the footwork: flexibility goes a long way. The movement is static and intricate: I did 13 hand moves in 20 feet. This gives way to nice positive crimping and a deceptively pumpy finish. Really cool crux and pretty rock. A possible detractor would be the sharpness of a couple of holds.
Location [Suggest Change]
On the first tier at the tall section of the joint. On the right side between Kid Gloves and Big Smoke. Goes through a distinctive red swath of rock, black streak to the left, green streak to the right.
Protection [Suggest Change]
5 bolts to 2 ring anchor