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Routes in The Joint

1000 Churches S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ambro-agie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bad Brain S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Brain S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Big Smoke S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bluebeard S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Broken Heroes S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Feel The Bern S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Full Tilt S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fun House, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Get Wacky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kilodeer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Big Shot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Obscured by Clowns S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
October Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rift, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TS Arete S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Ziggurat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Steve Bechtel, 2007
Page Views: 201 total · 29/month
Shared By: Jikimika Dinglehoffer on Nov 26, 2017
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description [Suggest Change]

Stick clip the first bolt, do an interesting move to get off the ground and into a stance with jugs. Leave the stance and climb through high quality red pegmatite on a slight overhang. Enter a technical boulder problem with tiny directional crimps. Expect to crimp some 2-finger crystals. That said, the crux is probably the footwork: flexibility goes a long way. The movement is static and intricate: I did 13 hand moves in 20 feet. This gives way to nice positive crimping and a deceptively pumpy finish. Really cool crux and pretty rock. A possible detractor would be the sharpness of a couple of holds.

Location [Suggest Change]

On the first tier at the tall section of the joint. On the right side between Kid Gloves and Big Smoke. Goes through a distinctive red swath of rock, black streak to the left, green streak to the right.

Protection [Suggest Change]

5 bolts to 2 ring anchor

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if you're into bouldery sport climbs I highly recommend this one. interesting move off the deck pulls you up to some jugs. compose yourself because it's the last chilling spot you'll have before the anchors up top. crank through some crimps, sidepulls and underclings.. big move up top to a good sidepull. really good stone and fun movement make this thing worth doing.

It's stood 13a in the guidebooks but felt soft for the grade, you decide. 7 days ago

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