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The Way of the Peaceful Warrior
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.3 from 40
votes
Routes in Alcove
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Band Camp S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Freezerburn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Madam Butterfly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Ordinary Moments S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Normal Groove S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sweeping Sickness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Way of the Peaceful Bolter, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Way of the Peaceful Warrior, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Who's Your Daddy? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 36.65665, -114.00704 |
| FA: | Trent Baker |
| Page Views: | 3,071 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Pandy Fackler on Nov 26, 2017 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Fun sidepulls and laybacks on blocky rock takes you to a move way far left from your 4th bolt. Clip the 5th bolt (long fixed draw as of Nov. 2017) and launch into the crux on incredible rock, with sustained, steep face climbing! 6th bolt is a pain to clip, and takes you away from the natural line, which is more to the right. Fun steepness the rest of the way.
I thought the climbing on this was superb and merits 4 stars, but the bolting is a bit funky. The rock was a delight, though a bit suspect at the start.
4 Comments