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Routes in Valhala Area - Main

Angelfire S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drill Baby Drill S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lancelot S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Serpent (Midgard), The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Viper, The S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, TR, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dan Dellinges & others, 2007-2017
Page Views: 46 total · 7/month
Shared By: Ryan C on Nov 23, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Great climb (2nd pitch is the money). Pitch 1 starts below the Valhalla Traverse ledge and has 1 tenuous move that might be 5.10 at the most any is easy run-out after last bolt. You can rap down to the start. Pitch 2 toprope is set from Pitch 2 anchors of The Serpent. See Topo in Valhalla Main area photos.

FA says 5.11, but felt 5.10a after cleaning significant munge off the route. Will defer to FA party until they say otherwise.

Location [Suggest Change]

From the Route Descriptions by Dan Dellinges and Larry Zulim 2007-2018: "Pitch #1- 5.10, pitch #2- 5.11+, two ½ pitches. The first pitch was bolted on lead and begins at the same belay as The Serpent. After reaching the small roof, climb over the roof then left to a single foot knob stance. A little foot dance right gets you to a small polished and sloping knob and the crux. Climb up to a good hand hold then up to a traversing, broken dyke. Climb above this dyke to easier climbing and the belay. The second pitch is currently a top rope from the second pitch belay of the serpent. The first two thirds is not too bad, the rest is challenging. We will finish it later as we get younger, stronger."

Protection [Suggest Change]

Pitch 1 has 5 bolts. Pitch 2 is top-rope only, but looks like it might get bolted in the future.

Photos

Paul Webber
Three Rivers, CA
  5.10
Paul Webber   Three Rivers, CA
  5.10
Someone placed a bolt on the start of pitch 2 recently. It will be a fun lead. Second pitch is pretty thin, but certainly easier than angelfire. Nov 27, 2017

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