Type: Sport, 600 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dan Dellinges & Larry Zulim 2016
Page Views: 163 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ryan Cox on Nov 23, 2017 with updates from Nathan W.
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

Very fun, high-quality route. 3-pitch sport (2 pitches if starting from where the trail ends at the Valhalla Traverse). See topos in the photos for the Main Valhalla area. I did not do the first pitch, but pitch 2 felt sustained 5.9 without any crux. FA party's description below.

Location

From the Route Descriptions by Dan Dellinges and Larry Zulim: "5.10, very hard. Three pitches. This climb can be found as you start down the gully just off the broken ledges below Lancelot. Look for the dyke where it intersects the gully. Belay from a small oak tree at the beginning of the dyke. First pitch, 5.10a, 8 bolts. Follow the dyke to the bolt belay station. The first two thirds of the next pitch is unforgiving, 5.10, with few rest spots. The third pitch is only 5.7 and continues along the dyke to the belay bolts. This pitch is also used as a fourth pitch with a lower intersecting climb called “The Sword, which begins on the ground below. 12 draws, two for belay directional."

Protection

14 draws. Well bolted. 70m rope required to rap down, or bring 2 ropes.

Photos

Nathan W.
Sequoia NP, CA
Nathan W.   Sequoia NP, CA
The name of the route comes from the fact that Dan "the Machine" hand-drilled 10 of the bolts on the route consecutively in a couple of hours. Don't try at home. 5 days ago