Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Andrew M and Nathan B
Page Views: 677 total · 25/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Nov 22, 2017
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You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

A good well-protected adventure straight up the Main Wall. Steep slabby granite at its finest. Lots of sustained climbing on the first pitch. Bring your fanciest dance shoes.

Start at underneath an overhang at shoulder height. Make a tough move to start. Easy moves lead to the first bolt. Clip the first bolt and start the sustained 10/11 climbing. Follow past another bolt, then some thin gear (offset good here) along with some nuts. More thin gear leads to a bolt. Keep following the arch left past another piece of gear and pull up next to the moss pad. Some more gear leads to a bulge and the bolted crux. A long section of mostly slopey knobs and hard slab leads past several bolts to the anchor. 170'

Make some hard moves to the right of the anchor to get off the belay. Clip the first bolt and get into the ramp to the left. Follow slab to crystals and cool waves to another bolt. Another bolt gets you to a cool shallow groove in the slab. A short run leads to a right facing flake corner. Follow the flake to the overhang, step right and finish over the bulge to the final anchor. 120'

Location

After scrambling down past Peelin' Feelin' look for two bolts and the left arching flake.

Protection

Many slings and draws are needed for P1. We brought 16, but could have used probably 20 due to the plentiful gear and sustained climbing. You can do it on twins/half ropes to reduce the need for extending all the gear near the arch. Bring 0 Metolius to #2/3 camalot, small rack of nuts, tricams, and extras in the small to medium cams with a few small offset. Bolted anchors at both pitches. Two ropes to rappel.

Photos