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Routes in Buttress Two (Bond Buttress)

Jaws T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jinx T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Long 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Octopussy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slither and Scream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sundawg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 340 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Craig Luebben, Sari Schmetterer et al.
Page Views: 178 total · 22/month
Shared By: rkrum on Nov 21, 2017
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

P1: Scramble up about 10ft to the base of the crack. A 3.5 or 3 is helpful to protect these moves, which are easy but mildly crumbly rock. Climb the generally gradually widening crack. Small cams can be placed intermittently. Belay at ledge. 130ft

P2: Continue up the corner with plenty of features to keep things pleasant down low, then a beautiful overhanging 9" crack to squeeze. Belay at next ledge. 55ft

P3: A rattly fist or two off the ledge into a squeeze pod, exiting to various flavors of ever steepening #4s, then #3s through the roof. Gear belay (#4 camalots) in the chimney as the angle eases off above. A directional with very small gear can help keep the rope from sucking your gear up into the roof. 70ft

P4: Continue up the chimney. The difficulties down low are directly proportional to the girth of the climber, but the exit out the roof at the top is exciting regardless of stature. Save a thin hands piece for above the roof. 65ft

P5: Inobvious 4th class. 20ft

Descent: Down climb P5 and rap the route. Double 60m rap. It may very well be possible to rap with a single 80m, but we did not check this.

Protection

Everything. 000 c3 to blue bro. Lots of it.

Realistically, a single set 000 to #3, 2x #3.5 - #6, 3x each new #4, old #4, #5 and green bros, and 1x blue bro should get you up reasonably.

Location

Park about 1.5mi up canyon. The surprisingly good trail starts maybe 150ft down canyon from where the road crosses the wash. If you come to the small hoodoo on the right side of the road, you've gone too far. Once at the base of the cliff, the route is impossible to miss.

Photos

smassey
CO
smassey   CO
Good solid fun, ya’ll. Highly recommended, but bring your motivation. I reckon there’s a reason Craig rapped after the first pitch... also kids, please practice LNT in this beautiful area. Nov 21, 2017
Nice!! This sounds great Nov 22, 2017

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