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Capitol Reefer

5.10d, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: White Harlem crew 90s
Utah > S Central Utah > Capitol Reef > Fruita Area > Castle Area
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Description

It’s a good route. Splitter crack parallels an off hands/offwidth corner to the left. They veer apart then back together before the anchor.

Bring a knife and some new webbing or chain/quick links for the anchor.

This route is located at: 38 17 44 N 111 15 24 W  - Its above a crumbly band so walk past it in the wash until you can get through the crumbly band and back track above it to a few hundred feet to the the route.

We found it while going out to climb Jimmy Hendricks’ routes Sand Shower and Ziggy and ended up just climbing this nice looking splitter system instead while they did those routes. Those routes are on the lower angle white colored rock faces farther up the wash.The exact coordinates of those are not known.

The hand drawn overview map photo is from the day of the FA. See pics for modern google earth view of coordinates and approach route. 

Location

The route is located at 38 17 44 N 111 15 24 W. Its not on the Castle, but on the buttress across the wash. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Approach. Take the dry wash that goes between the Castle formation and the main big cliffs.
[Hide Photo] Approach. Take the dry wash that goes between the Castle formation and the main big cliffs.
Stemming on Capitol Reefer. 90s
[Hide Photo] Stemming on Capitol Reefer. 90s
Capitol Reefer '90s
[Hide Photo] Capitol Reefer '90s
Capitol Reefer showing splitter on right dihedral on left. 90s
[Hide Photo] Capitol Reefer showing splitter on right dihedral on left. 90s
Notes
[Hide Photo] Notes