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Double Century

5.11d, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 6 votes
FA: Shannon Stuart-Smith, Adam Nolte
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Pendergrass-Mur… > Velo Crag

Description

Sharp crimps to a high first bolt, a big move up to the second bolt, then easier climbing from there on edges.

Location

first route to the right of The Century

Protection

8 bolts + chain anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Thin start to Double Century 5.11d. First 4 bolts shown.
[Hide Photo] Thin start to Double Century 5.11d. First 4 bolts shown.
Double Century
[Hide Photo] Double Century

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Found no other description or comments about this route (other than what's in the RRG south book) and found that after the first two bolts, the climbing got easier but got further and further away from the bolt line. I was never more than a few moves away, but the path of least resistance seemed obviously left of the bolts, so I kept checking to make sure I wasn't off route. Was a bit dirty in sections. Nov 18, 2017
Matthew Jaggers
Red River Gorge
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Amazing route, but the last two bolts were very odd and require a long reach to hang/clip. Nov 8, 2020
Jarek Voyles
Beattyville, KY
[Hide Comment] A little bit of rebolting would do wonders for this route. Really fun movement on solid edges, but the the last few bolts require an unnecessarily sketchy traverse to the right to clip, away from the natural line, and back again to continue upwards. It really disrupts the flow of an otherwise enjoyable test of crimp strength with contrived clipping. The anchor placement suffers much the same; a bizarre traverse way out right after the line’s natural end. A bolt line plumb with the intended path could make this one of the best rigs at the crag. As it is now, you’d best bring a healthy wingspan or prepare for some unwarranted spice. Aug 24, 2021
[Hide Comment] Super fun crimp line only 2 stars due to some oddities. Opens with a V4/5 boulder problem to the very high first draw so my vote goes to 12a/b. Kinda odd bolt line but still great movement up higher. Careful on the 4th clip. It's an ankle breaker!! There should be a bolt to keep you from whipping into the ledge above draw 2. Also this line had only 6 bolts and is about 80 ft long so is quite heady for a slab. I second a re-bolting of this line. Traffic could make it classic. Thank you setters much appreciated. Nov 4, 2021