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Routes in (4) Main Wall

Ant Abuse T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Catharsis P1 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dutch Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Dutch Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Full Spank Mode S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Kill the Hate S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lost in the Delta Neighborhood T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Mixing It Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Noodle Arm Goes Limp T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Pillow Talk S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Primary Gobbler T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rising Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scott Free S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scotty Hits the Warp Drive T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scotty Jumps Double Dutch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sisters of the Road T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Subway to Venus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sultans of Swing T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Superstrings S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Scott Smith, Chuck Buzzard, 8-87
Page Views: 392 total · 35/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Nov 18, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

Description

This is a combination of two routes which is the best and most intuitive way to climb either. Start as for Double Dutch Left, climbing the featured face past a couple bolts to a left-trending crack on low-angle rock. Instead of stepping right at the low first anchor, step left to the stance and jam up the left-trending hand crack. From another stance, move right up the layback crack to the anchor ledge. The original Scotty Hits the Warp Drive busts up this last section at 5.10.

Location

Right side of the prow in the middle of the Main Wall, just right of where the main trail hits the wall

Protection

Gear to 2", 2 bolts

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