The park closes on February 1st and remains closed until July 15th to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Their annual nesting spot is on the Shining Wall, though they can be heard year-round. Please respect the closure and DO NOT CLIMB AT MADRONE WALL BETWEEN FEB 1st AND JULY 15th. Updates to the status of the park will posted on Clackamas County Park's website - clackamas.us/parks/madronew… - and on the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee facebook page - facebook.com/madronewall/.
Description
A very runout start up a minor corner with positive edges brings you to a stance on a sloping ledge. Clip the first bolt and step left - don't get sucked up the featureless groove on the right. Very small edges and tip-toeing gets you the flake. Climb this and make a hard pull on top of it. From here, join Scotty Hits the Warp Drive and climb the left-trending hand crack to another stance, and then back right up the final layback crack to the anchor ledge.
Location
Just left of Double Dutch, on the left side of the obvious prow in the middle of the Main Wall, where the main trail comes up
[Hide Comment] This route, along with several others (Goldfingers, Ant Abuse, Full Spank Mode, etc) are intentionally left spicy. That is just part of the character of climbing at Madrone. These routes are labeled with "severity" ratings (PG13, R/X). Don't attempt them if you're not up to the challenge.
Aug 17, 2018
[Hide Comment] I've grown to kind of like the intentional spice on easier 10s at Madrone. Ant Abuse and Whatever Blows were a delight.
This route, however. When I got down I told old man Jeffery Jones on belay: "this is the first time in my life I feel discriminated against". I'm 5'5", an inch taller than the average woman. So I'll go ahead and say the bolting on this route is also sexist. Cancel Madrone!
I kid, I kid (well, the cancel part, clipping was very frustrating). I'll get to the point: if you're under 5'5.5" and don't want to piss your pants on the ledge clipping the first bolt, bring locking pliers (as a stick clip) or your sexy climbing platforms.
Edit: bring a #3, maybe even a #4 (I wouldn't, but there was certainly a spot for it).
Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure
Details
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Portland, OR
This route, however. When I got down I told old man Jeffery Jones on belay: "this is the first time in my life I feel discriminated against". I'm 5'5", an inch taller than the average woman. So I'll go ahead and say the bolting on this route is also sexist. Cancel Madrone!
I kid, I kid (well, the cancel part, clipping was very frustrating). I'll get to the point: if you're under 5'5.5" and don't want to piss your pants on the ledge clipping the first bolt, bring locking pliers (as a stick clip) or your sexy climbing platforms.
Edit: bring a #3, maybe even a #4 (I wouldn't, but there was certainly a spot for it).
Damn fine route otherwise. Oct 8, 2022