Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Robert McGown, Ricardo Suito, 12-88
Page Views: 121 total · 9/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Nov 18, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

Description

A very runout start up a minor corner with positive edges brings you to a stance on a sloping ledge. Clip the first bolt and step left - don't get sucked up the featureless groove on the right. Very small edges and tip-toeing gets you the flake. Climb this and make a hard pull on top of it. From here, join Scotty Hits the Warp Drive and climb the left-trending hand crack to another stance, and then back right up the final layback crack to the anchor ledge.

Location

Just left of Double Dutch, on the left side of the obvious prow in the middle of the Main Wall, where the main trail comes up

Protection

Gear to 2" and 3 bolts

Photos

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so first off I have never set anything and maybe don't know what I'm talking about but the first bolt is so high up a ground fall would cause serious injury. Please put in a bolt - I witnessed a seasoned climber struggle to get the first bolt and almost had a terrible accident. its like 25' up. Aug 16, 2018
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10-
This route, along with several others (Goldfingers, Ant Abuse, Midget Madness, etc) are intentionally left spicy. That is just part of the character of climbing at Madrone. These routes are labeled with "severity" ratings (PG13, R/X). Don't attempt them if you're not up to the challenge. Aug 17, 2018