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Routes in (4) Main Wall

Ant Abuse T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Catharsis P1 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dutch Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Dutch Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Full Spank Mode S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Kill the Hate S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lost in the Delta Neighborhood T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Mixing It Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Noodle Arm Goes Limp T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Pillow Talk S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Primary Gobbler T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rising Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scott Free S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scotty Hits the Warp Drive T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scotty Jumps Double Dutch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sisters of the Road T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Subway to Venus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sultans of Swing T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Superstrings S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Robert McGown, Ricardo Suito, 12-88
Page Views: 113 total · 10/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Nov 18, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details


A very runout start up a minor corner with positive edges brings you to a stance on a sloping ledge. Clip the first bolt and step left - don't get sucked up the featureless groove on the right. Very small edges and tip-toeing gets you the flake. Climb this and make a hard pull on top of it. From here, join Scotty Hits the Warp Drive and climb the left-trending hand crack to another stance, and then back right up the final layback crack to the anchor ledge.


Just left of Double Dutch, on the left side of the obvious prow in the middle of the Main Wall, where the main trail comes up


Gear to 2" and 3 bolts


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so first off I have never set anything and maybe don't know what I'm talking about but the first bolt is so high up a ground fall would cause serious injury. Please put in a bolt - I witnessed a seasoned climber struggle to get the first bolt and almost had a terrible accident. its like 25' up. Aug 16, 2018
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
This route, along with several others (Goldfingers, Ant Abuse, Midget Madness, etc) are intentionally left spicy. That is just part of the character of climbing at Madrone. These routes are labeled with "severity" ratings (PG13, R/X). Don't attempt them if you're not up to the challenge. Aug 17, 2018

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