Type: Trad, 105 ft (32 m), 2 pitches
FA: a man with balls of steel and hexes
Page Views: 696 total · 12/month
Shared By: Phil Pullshard on Nov 15, 2017
Admins: James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Start on first 3 bolts of "Over the Hillary". Cross left into the hand crack traverse, up the mini-dihedral to a log. Stay on a rock traverse left to a slanting crack in a mini-headwall. This is where I would set a belay next time (you might even be able to reach ground on other side of 'hump'). It would be pretty comfortable staying on rock, and you would have good crack for anchor.

Pitch two from there would go up diagonally. Make 'bouldery' move (crux) into a horizontal squeeze, then voilĂ , the final 5.6 hand crack mantel to the top of this cool buttress. There is a good anchor building opportunity on top.

Walk off right and follow a ridge west a little, then downclimb south.

I cleared ledges of choss, but just a few more ascents, and it would be worth of 4 stars... to a trad climber.

Location

On the Upper Midlife Wall, start up "Over the Hillary;

Protection

A standard rack to 4", and RPs are helpful.

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