Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches
FA: Derek Field & Dave Spies (Nov 2017)
Page Views: 1,199 total · 22/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Nov 14, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman

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Access Issue: Stage 1 Fire Restrictions in Effect on Coconino and Kaibab National Forests Details

Description

Sgt. Pepper is a trippy ride along the very thin fingercrack on the south face of Submarine Rock. This somewhat improbable line offers thrilling exposure and mostly good sandstone on the sunny side of an iconic Sedona landmark.

Pitch 1: Squirm up a clean right-facing offwidth corner to gain the big ledge system. Trend up and right on easy ground to a fun no-hands slab traverse and belay with whatever size gear you want at the base of the fingertips crack. (5.6, 60 feet)

Pitch 2: Layback the thin fingercrack up to the red rock where it terminates. Make an airy traverse right past one bolt and mantel onto a ledge. Walk a little further right into the adjacent crack system which has a piton (?) halfway up a short left-facing corner. Climb this corner and mantel solid mud jugs onto the summit. (5.10, 80 feet)

Rappel: same as all other routes on Submarine/Steamboat Rock. Rap 120 feet from chain anchor on SW corner of summit. Dave Spies and I donated well-camouflaged chains for the anchor (Nov 2017).

Location

Right-slanting system of mostly thin cracks on the left side of the south face. Approach as for Project 941, walking out to the "limestone tongue" (per Toula) on the SW side of the formation. Start in a short right-facing offwidth corner (see photo) just right of some Boy Scout petroglyphs.

Protection

double rack to 2" + one each 3", 4"
  • optional 5" cam for easy offwidth start
  • the crux takes small gear (TCUs, micronuts, sliders are all "helpful")
One 70m rope or two 60m ropes
  • one 60m rope gets you down to easy (4th class) ledges

Photos