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Peanut the Wonder Horse

5.11d, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 13 votes
FA: Mike Carrington
Colorado > S Platte > Devil's Head > Wipeyur Buttress
Warning Access Issue: Road and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Clip the first bolt, lock off, and make a long reach to a slopey hold. Make your way up under the roof with a challenging mantel. Traverse out the roof, and cut your feet loose to get them on the arete at the lip of the roof. Layback and squeeze your way up delicate and powerful climbing to get to more positive holds above the bulge to get to the anchors.

Location

This is the second climb from the left and one of the first ones you will see as you approach the crag from the trail in.

Protection

Quickdraws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Peanut the Wonder Horse.
[Hide Photo] Peanut the Wonder Horse.
Me on the FA just getting out of the roof.
[Hide Photo] Me on the FA just getting out of the roof.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I got lucky and I didn't see them, but as it warmed up, there is a nest of wasps in the crack just right of the first bolt. Apr 15, 2018