Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Clint Casey, Drew Spaulding-Sept '17
Page Views: 126 total · 9/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Nov 11, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Access Closed Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Lava and Kusha were the twin sons of Lord Rama and Sita in Hindu Mythology. Just up to the right of the bottom toe of the lower slab of the Krishna West, there is a pair of paralleling twin cracks that lean slightly leftward. These 2 new routes climb 38 meters from the grassy ledge to the 2-bolt anchor on top of Kusha. As the belayer, you can lower the leader to the 2-bolt anchor at the base of Broken Arrow as you start to climb the lower 15 feet. This allows a 70 meter rope to work for these twin pitches. Start off the grassy ledge, and gain the thin, left-leaning crack on the left side of the obvious flake. Continuous, powerful climbing leads to a thin section protected by a bolt (the crux). Follow past 2 more bolts up and right to gain the midway ledge. Continue up the large, left-facing dihedral above with the thin finger crack (5.9) in it, all the way to its top!

Location

This is right of Broken Arrow and ascends the left of a pair of cracks.

Protection

A full rack with 3 bolts on the lower slab protect this long pitch. There is a 2-bolt anchor with chains for descent on top of Kusha.

Photos

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Case  
I found triples from 0.3 to 0.75 useful on this pitch. It would clean up nicely with more traffic. Climb a 5.9 finger crack in left-facing corner up high. Mar 19, 2018