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Lycra at its Limit

5.10c, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gary Olsen, 1986
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Gully of Higher… > Higher Education Ridg…


Lycra at its Limit climbs the overhanging crack system starting in the obvious large right-arching corner left of the bolted lines on the Ms. Luval wall. Jam, stem, and grope your way up the crack to its end near Reading Comprehension’s chains. The topo in Ruckmans’ 1998 guide shows the route starting to the right of the corner and traversing left into the crack system, but it is best climbed directly, although the bottom part may be wet early or late in the season.


See Ms. Luval Cranks a Thesis for the approach.


Set of nuts and cams to 3 inches. Rap/lower from the Reading Comprehension/Order of Operations chains.

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Lycra at its Limit (5.10), Todd H.
[Hide Photo] Lycra at its Limit (5.10), Todd H.

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Ryan Arnold
[Hide Comment] Pro seemed to emphasize camalots #1 through #3. I only had singles and ran it out a bit. Also used several cams in the smaller range, plus a nut. Apr 22, 2020