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V-2

5.6, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 4 votes
FA: RW &RH Nov 9, 2017
New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus… > Rainbow Slabs > 4. The Perfect Wave Slab
Warning Access Issue: You may see the Peregrine Falcons closure signs for Painted Walls on the approach path to Rainbow but, so far, Rainbow has always remained open. DetailsDrop down

Description

Nothing to do with World War II  rockets. Standing at the belay stance at the beginning of Crazy Woman Driver ("CWD") and looking up and right at about the angle that a "V" makes, there appeared to the two of us what looked like a nice line.

This is probably the easiest, best protected climb to the top of the Perfect Wave Slab.

P1 - [P1, of course, has been done numerous times in the past] Scramble up the 12-15 ft wall to achieve the ledge at the base of Tsunami [some might want to belay this 15 ft] Climb up and right on very easy rock (5.2?) 50-60 ft to the belay/rap station at the start of Crazy Woman Driver, "CWD"  70-80 ft  5.2+/-   [ You are now 115 ft above the start of Bonzai and at the 1973 belay for P1 of Super Slab, 5.7+R/X note the historic 1973 piton in the crack on the right. ] 

P2 - Step right onto the slab and climb brushed rock on a 20-25-degree diagonal to the right (right of the tiny pine tree, CWD goes left of the tree), following 4 bolts and an optional Pink tricam in a hole (and a red tricam in a hole just next to it) to a double bolt anchor.

Descent - Rap back to the CWD/Super Slab anchor. [Note: From the 4th bolt it is also possible to traverse left about 30 +/- ft to the top anchor on CWD.]

NOTE: At the CWD/Super Slab anchor if you don't have a 70m rope, or two ropes, then you MUST return to the Tsunami ledge as the rap directly down to the ground from the CWD/Super Slab P1 belay is 33 meters and a single 60m rope leaves you short of the ground.

NOTE2 - The FA was led only on the tricam placements. FA party added the bolts later.

Protection

4 draws and optional Pink and Red tricam

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

RW leading the FA - he is at the tricam placement(s)  No bolts yet!
[Hide Photo] RW leading the FA - he is at the tricam placement(s) No bolts yet!
Looking down on V-2 on the FA from the top anchor on CWD
[Hide Photo] Looking down on V-2 on the FA from the top anchor on CWD
RW higher on V-2, around the crux
[Hide Photo] RW higher on V-2, around the crux
About as good a tricam placement as exists
[Hide Photo] About as good a tricam placement as exists