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Routes in Pyramid Boulder

Blood Moon V2 5+ R
Giza V1 5 PG13
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Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Ryan Loiselle and Dan Knisell
Page Views: 167 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ryan Loiselle on Nov 9, 2017
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Description

This is a bad-ass highball problem that will likely go down as a classic! If you are scared of heights, then you will likely not want to get on this one! It is a 20 foot climb with a nice flat landing, but a big boulder does loom directly behind the route.

The start involves working your way up onto the flake with the thin seam. You end up standing on this seam. Directly above and to the left, there is a crimp rail. Work your way up to that rail. There is also a nice sidepull/jug out left that can be used to gain the position to be able to pull the mantel move required to get you on top of the crimp rail. This is where the "heady" business starts. Use the large flake above you as an undercling, and smear your feet on the blank face. Make one last big move to the top lip.

Caution: The large flake at bottom is not the most solid piece, and also the top-out hold gets thinner on its right side. Try to work your way up to the more solid feeling piece up and left at the top.

Options: There are some options for a good additional start to this climb. You can start way low right on the boulder, and then traverse in using a few different methods.

Location

It is on the side of the Pyramid Boulder (see the image).

Protection

As many pads as you can bring and also a spotter.

Photos

Dan Knisell
Townsend, MA
  V2 R
Dan Knisell   Townsend, MA
  V2 R
Get on the top, and take a peek at the topout. This gives you an idea of where the top hold gets thin and fragile. Maybe even tick where it's good. Nov 9, 2017

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